Bye-bye Brookie

And lo, as our visit to Australia draws to a close, we are preparing to pack and to leave. We arrived with a case full of Hula Hoops and chocolate for Helen and friends, and we’re leaving with several bottles of wine. No less bulky, but much, much heavier.

In Manly, they were setting up for the ANZAC Day Dawn Service. We’d missed out on the event in Darwin five years ago, but wouldn’t it be great to show our support here, now? Yes, it would. But then we found out the truth.

Anzac Day Service

4.25am? Sorry, I know getting up that early, just once, is nothing like the sacrifice thousands of people have made over so many years of conflict, but it was never going to happen.

Today, though, for the last time, the three of us had Manly massages. Helena was slightly more gentle today, as she didn’t want us to be in pain on our upcoming flight!

The library in Manly was very comfortable, and after writing for a while, I managed not to fall asleep. I had a quick coffee then set off for Warringah Mall. Meanwhile, Liesel had renewed the hire car for a couple more days. I think she likes the Toyota Corolla hybrid a wee bit too much. The Mazda at home better be looking over its shoulder…

The library in the Mall was very comfortable, and after writing for a while, I migrated to an armchair where I did nod off for a short while.

We received news from one of our secret sources. A client of Helen’s had said that four pelicans had been seen at North Harbour Reserve, so with a quick handbrake turn, we headed off in that direction. It’s a nice little reserve, a little park off the road that we’d passed by many times, but this was our first actual visit.

There were plenty of folks taking their dogs or their babies for a walk, but disappointingly, the pelicans were not to be seen.

Spot the pelicans?

In general, the weather here has been superb, so it’s hard to keep in mind that actually, it’s Autumn. But when you have to shuffle through this many fallen leaves, you remember what time of year it is.

Fallen leaves

The first thing I heard on ANZAC day wasn’t the bagpipes and the drums from a procession somewhere close by, it was Liesel asking whether I could hear the bagpipes and drums. Well, no, I couldn’t and please, let me get back to sleep.

Packing is a frustrating occupation, there are so many things that can’t be put in a case until the last minute. So we gave up for a bit, and went for a walk instead. Narrabeen Lagoon seemed like a good place to return to. Obviously, we didn’t completely circumnavigate the lagoon today, but along with a million other walkers, cyclists, joggers and more serious runners, scooterers and skaters, we enjoyed a short tramp along the path.

I was surprised there weren’t more boats out on the water: we saw a few kayaks and later on, one very loud motor boat which ruined the ambiance for everyone else. The black swans were well away from shore, and the closest bird we saw with wet feet was a lapwing. There were some diving birds too.

Angel trumpets

You wouldn’t believe me if I said that we saw a moose here today. So here is the proof:

Moose

Well, a bent coat-hanger in the shape of a moose isn’t really a moose, I suppose, but it made us laugh. Way up on the hill on this ANZAC day, it was good to see a house proudly displaying a huge Aussie flag.

House and flag

Many people were having picnics and some were very well-equipped for the occasion. Some had placed table cloths on the picnic tables. A few were sitting on large blankets on the ground. And a couple had even erected tents for the occasion, which we thought was a bit OTT.

Picnic tent

Back at home, Helen was preparing food, Liesel continued preparing food, I stayed out of the way. Jacqui arrived with cheese and crackers, and shortly afterwards, Brent joined us fresh from the gym.

Creeping fig

Even though the creeping figs might be edible, they’re quite difficult to reach from Helen’s back yard. I suspect that, like the quinces we had in Chessington, this fruit will go un-eaten.

Cheese and crackers and a glass or six of wine, that’s a great way to pass the afternoon. And when that was all taken care of, a barbecue. The carnivores had sausages and ribs, while Helen and I had veggie burgers and we all shared a variety of delicious salads. Jacqui also brought caramel hedgehog slice as a dessert which, despite its name, was suitable for vegetarians.

I think we all enjoyed our time outside. Jacqui brought everything, including a game, Cornhole, which involved throwing beanbags into a hole from a distance of about 6 metres. Modesty prevents me from saying who was the champion today.

Mick and Helen, the tossers

Several hours were passed imbibing wine, chatting and laughing. And I kept the phone in my pocket, so no pictures of us with Jacqui. Mick, you’re rubbish.

After Helen, Brent and Jacqui left, the rest of us went straight to bed and straight to sleep. Until I woke up, feeling refreshed and ready to go, but it was only 1am. It took a while to drift off again.

Our penultimate morning in Brookvale started with an unusual breakfast, as we have been using up the various cereals etc. Some more  packing also took place.

After a break of several days, Liesel received a couple of work projects. We had a date in Manly, so we set off for the library there. There were many people working on laptops, so thank goodness there was a secret upper floor with additional workspace.

On the way to the library, I chortled at this juxtaposition of the word ‘chickens’.

Chickens

One on the back of a mother-in-law and one on the back of a van. And as I walked by the driver, he asked why I was taking pictures of his van.

Maggie was a member of our baby-sitting circle in Chessington some decades ago, before moving to Australia. She now lives in the western suburbs of Sydney and today, she came all the way back to Manly, the town of her youth, to see us. I met her from the ferry and we had a coffee at Three Beans.

After joining Liesel and Leslie by Manly Beach, we went for a short walk before lunching back at Alice Dumpling: this was the place where we’d first met Brent, seven weeks ago, but it feels much more recent.

Sorry again, there is no photo of Maggie with or without us. Slapped wrist, Mick, you incompetent so-and-so.

As I accompanied Maggie back to the wharf, Liesel and Leslie indulged in a gelato. I succumbed to temptation, too, then stayed in Manly while they went off to Warringah Mall Library. After work, Helen joined me for a quick cuppa and a lovely chat.

Back at home, more serious packing took place, to the point that we were now weighing the packed bags. In the process, I discovered that I, too, have put on a few pounds weight since I’ve been here in Aus. Secretly, I’m hoping the scales are lying. It must be all the sunshine, can’t be anything to do with drinking more wine than I’ve ever drunk in my life before, or eating out far more often than we do at home.

While packing, our background music was provided by the band down the road at Brookvale Oval rehearsing the national anthems for the rugby game tonight. Liesel and I both tried to buy tickets for this game but failed for ridiculous reasons that come down to bad website design.

But why were they playing the UK national anthem as well as the Australian one? It’s a local game between Manly Sea Eagles and Parramatta Eels.

We picked Helen up and drove back to Manly. Saké is Helen’s and Brent’s favourite restaurant so we had another very nice, very tasty meal here tonight.

Sorry, but we realised later, that we didn’t get photos of the family, Helen, Brent, Mick, Liesel and Leslie, all together. Crikey Mick, you are such a loser.

Manly Wharf at night

But of course, I did take a few pictures of Manly in the dark.

Manly Beach in the moonlight

When we returned home, of course we had to watch the rugby match on TV. We could hear the crowd from the Oval just down the road, and we realised that if we looked up at the TV as soon as we heard the roar of the crowd, we’d see the try being scored that they were cheering for. Hooray for 2- or 3-second delays in the broadcast!

The Eels were leading at half-time but the Sea Eagles won the match 32-18 after a tremendous second half comeback.

And so, one final breakfast with Helen at Big Cliff’s, no that’s not right… We returned to Little Collins for breakfast with Helen. I ate well last night at Saké so I had a relatively small meal. The Sun was out, waiting to wish us goodbye. All chores today, returning the car, and the final phase of packing, weighing, re-packing, a wonderful game of 3D Tetris.

Helen was kind enough to drive us to the airport and she is now spending the afternoon in the city with some friends. We checked in and passed through security with ease.

Somehow, this faffing about at an airport always seems so anticlimactic after such a wonderful, exciting, busy holiday. And welcoming a new young man into the family is a bonus, of course. Congratulations again, Helen and Brent, and thank you very much for letting us crash in what will very soon be your shared pad.

So here we are sitting in an airport departure lounge waiting to board our flight. But where are we going? What is our next destination? Tune in soon for the next exciting episode. I’m not sure what our internet connection will be like for the next few days, so appy polly loggies if there’s a delay. I have no idea why that phrase from A Clockwork Orange just popped into my head. 

Red, white and Blue

Our final morning at the eco resort, and we were invited to help feed the emus again. And again, we counted them, each of us arriving at different totals, but Mark was happy that they were all present and correct.

The fox bait had been taken, so out there somewhere, there’s a fox with tummy ache who’ll probably vomit the poisoned liver up, and his mate will eat it. Not very nice, but we don’t want foxes attacking the emus, and of course, they shouldn’t be here in Australia in the first place.

Helen and Brent departed first, having a lunch date back in the Hunter Valley. The rest of us took a little longer eating breakfast, packing, and loading the car. Wendy and Mark came by to say farewell. We look forward to seeing them at this Dark Sky Eco Resort again.

We had deliberated for a long time, and in the end, we decided to give the Blue Mountains another chance. We always pass by a few dead animals on the side of the road, but today, Liesel saw an echidna walk by on the verge.

We stopped in Coolah for a coffee, in a very old fashioned coffee shop, probably not decorated since the 1950s. I walked over to the local library to use their facilities, and it was staffed by a lovely volunteer. I could easily have spent an hour or more browsing the shelves.

Google Maps sometimes likes to take us the non-obvious way, because it thinks we’re saving 6 inches distance or 5 seconds travel time. And today was no exception. We turned off the paved road onto a gravel track. This is exciting enough but when a herd of sheep crossed the road in front of us, we cheered heartily.

White sheep on the road

Then we turned a corner onto a proper red dirt road, mostly straight, and quite narrow, we’re glad we didn’t encounter any vehicles driving towards us.

Red road

When we parked up, we were amazed at how filthy dirty the car was. Oops.

We were here at Hands on the Rock, off Ulan Road near Turill, to see some really old Aboriginal rock paintings. The path started off gently, and, as we made progress, it became steeper and steeper, and eventually, we had to clambour up some rocks and steps. It was a challenge for all of us.

Rocky path
Liesel and Leslie in front of the rock

It took a while for any of us to see the hands and the drawings, but once our vision had tuned in properly, we could see dozens of hand prints, some small enough to have been a child’s, plus depictions of animals. I bet when they chewed on their ochre and gum and water to spray over their hands, they never thought people, white people even, would be admiring their art thousamds of years later.

Ancient hand prints

I remember at school using this technique to make handprints, only we just chewed on charcoal and water. Very nice, very tasty.

As well as the old artwork, we enjoyed studying the geology of the place for a while.

Back on the road, we passed lots of cattle and a few more sheep. We saw a 1950s car for sale: $8000. Bargain. As long as it doesn’t fall apart as soon as you look at it.

Mount Piper power station is coal-powered, destined to close in 2040, but the infrastucture in place to move coal from the collieries to the power station is amazing: long conveyor belts all over the countryside.

We stopped for a toilet break and Liesel and I both enjoyed the bird singing inside. Only it wasn’t real. It was a recording of the critically endangered regent honeyeater, of which there are only about 300 in the wild.

We saw some amazing views on the way too: the last time we passed this way, it had been precipitating quite a lot.

View from the car

On previous visits to Australia, when a vehicle like this has approached us, we’ve waved at the other driver. Not an exuberant shaking of the arm, but a more subtle wave, the Aussie wave. This entails keeping hold of the steering wheel and lifting the index finger of the right hand. And it’s always delightful when the other driver reciprocates with the same gesture. But for some reason, we’ve forgotten to wave this time, and they must think we’re very rude.

Another thing I miss is the corrugated roads that Sarah and I encountered on our first visit in 1986. We were then advised to find the optimum, most comfortable, speed in the campervan, and stick to it. As I remember, our van only took flight once, but nothing was broken on landing. 

View from Pearson’s Lookout

After a long drive, we arrived at our home for one night only in Leura. No more dirt tracks for us today. We discussed going through a car wash, but it never happened.

Liesel and Leslie shared room 109 while I styed in room 108. It was nice being in room 108 again. That was my room number in Queen Mary Hall of Residence when I was a student all those years ago. This room 108 was probably tidier and less stinky than the original one, shared with another teenage boy.

We ate at a Thai place in Leura, not being able to remember where we’d eaten the last time we stayed in this small town.

After breakfast and checking out, we headed straight for the Three Sisters. Rain wasn’t forecast at all, but you never know. In passing, we had a chance to see more of Katoomba too, including a visit to a fabulous bakery, recommended by everyone. I apologise to the youg lady serving: I may have stared at her prodigious face piercings and tattoos a little too long. So glad I didn’t have a neodymium magnet in my pocket, she might have come at me face first.

Katoomba’s cockatoo, a white one
Selfie of the day with Three Sisters

We walked down the path towards the Three Sisters. Which meant we had to walk back up again. Still, it was good too see the rocks in full colour, not through too much cloud like last time.

Actual Blue Mountains 

The kind lady at our new favourite coffee emporium, Roasters with Altitude, seemed pleased to see us on our return visit. And yes, we enjoyed her coffee again. And we chatted with another customer for a while before driving further along the road to Evans Lookout for another short walk. On another occasion, we might have attempted the Grand Canyon Walk, but we really didn’t have enough time (nor oomph) today. But at least two people had just returned, and they were glowing with excitement and with perspiration.

We’ve been to Govett’s Leap before but the lookout seemed a lot more developed than last time. Still a spectacular view, of course.

Govett’s Leap

You were wondering about Autumn colours. Blackheath was looking pretty again.

Autumn colours

Navigating through Sydney was hard: long tunnels and of course Google Maps lost its GPS signal, so when we emerged into the real world, we weren’t where Google thought we were. So let’s just say we followed a more touristy route through the city than planned.

On the way back to Helen’s, we stopped off at Manly where I met Bambi with the croissants specially baked for her in Katoomba. Then another slight detour via Brent’s place, where we gave Helen the two loaves of bread specially baked for her in Katoomba. Then another slight detour via the Mall where I picked up my newly repaired shorts and enjoyed walking around Aldi while Liesel did some shopping.

We only had the white hire car for a few more hours, so a day trip north to Palm Beach seemed like a good idea. Well, it was Saturday, during school holidays, and what was a good idea for us was also a good idea for everyone else. Having been on empty roads for so long lately, it was a nasty shock to be driving slowly, in lots of traffic. Such a difference.

After a walk along the beach, we sat down for a rest. Leslie decided to take up pipe smoking.

Leslie with a pipe

A jetfoiler is a watercraft equipped with hydrofoils that uses an electric motor or motors for propulsion. We saw a couple in action off Palm Beach. Yes, I’d like to have a go. But what happens when I fall off, and the vessel disappears into the distance?

Messing about in the water

Some small planes flew over, but this time, we didn’t witness any landing in the water. I’d like to have a go at that too. Well, I say that, but today, we didn’t even have the courage (nor the oomph) to walk up the path to the lighthouse, there were so many other, let’s say younger and fitter, people almost running up that hill.

Liesel and I had walked to Whale Beach before, but this time we drove. And I was surprised to see how steep some of the hills were that we’d previously tramped up. The surf was really up here, so the beach was closed. I think the sign meant, don’t go in the water rather than onto the beach itself. Liesel and I walked along, enjoying the sensation of sand on our feet again and exfoliating my heels.

Big surf

Sometimes the sea is tempting, but even without the warning signs, not today. And indeed, I think we only saw three people in the water altogether.

In Avalon, we had lunch at a nice, small café before setting off to return our car, hoping the petrol gauge didn’t dip below F for Full.

On the road up to and back from Palm Beach, we’d been entertained by the many hand-made signs passing on greetings to friends and family. ‘Klay and Mady: Happy Wedding Day’, ‘Happy Birthday, Norm’ and many more.

Happy 50th Simone, from us too

Over the road from the car rental place, is Stony Range Regional Botanic Gardens. We’d been before with Pauline and Andew, and today we returned with Leslie. It was quieter today, being Saturday, no construction work next door. On the other hand, the birds were much quieter too, and the dominant sound was that of the traffic on the main road. Still, it was nice and cool in here, under the canopy.

Cabbage tree palm (I think)

And, in really exciting news, we saw a couple of koalas out in the wild. As you can imagine, Leslie in particular was delighted.

Koala

A lagoon and some beaches

Narabeen Lagoon was on our list of potential walks, so I’m glad we made it this week, on what was Pauline and Andrew’s final day here with us.

After parking up near Berry Reserve, we set off in an anti-clockwise direction around the lagoon. If, instead, we’d chosen clockwise, and therefore turned left out of the car park, we would have reached a coffee shop much, much sooner. Still, it was a lovely walk, on a well-made path that stayed close to the water most of the time. We crossed South Creek, with which the lagoon is connected to the sea.

A little bit cloudy but very pleasant

Again, it was nice to be out in the Sun, but it was equally welcome when we could avoid the full extent of its heat and indeed, most of the walk was in the shade.

The soundtrack to our walk was provided by birds, including kookaburras, although it was very hard to see them up in the trees. We did catch sight of a well-camouflaged heron by a tree. But most of the wildlife that we saw consisted of runners and cyclists plus a few dog-walkers.

We crossed over South Creek, Deep Creek, Middle Creek and South Creek. Well, that’s confusing, isn’t it? I think it’s because the lagoon is just a very wide section of South Creek. It was hard not to smile, but seeing this sign was inspiring.

Smile

We very nearly missed this little devil.

Spider hiding in a leaf

He was harder to spot than the black swans in the water, but they were too far away to see clearly.

Deep Creek

Smalltown Boy came into my head and for a while, I didn’t know why. But I think I must have seen a sign for the Jim Somerville Bridge which takes us over Middle Creek. I suspect it’s named after someone else, not the lead singer from Bronski Beat.

Jim Somerville Bridge

Pauline and Liesel marched on ahead and after Andrew turned back, I really thought I’d catch up with them at some point. But I didn’t.

The school for future sports people was entertaining although I only witnessed one young person falling in the water. “Junior development coaching programs for boys and girls age 12-16 with a focus on developing pre-elite junior athletes for Australian Junior Team representation. Recognised Pathways program for Paddle Australia and NSW Institute of Sport.”

“Could you be our next Olympian for Brisbane 2032?” Well, let me think about that. Maybe I’m just a little too far out of the age range.

Close to the RSL ANZAC Village, there is a series of plaques commemorating various wars and other action in which Australian forces took part. It’s quite moving when you see one after another after another, it makes you realise there’s never been a long, totally peaceful period in our lifetime.

Malayan emergency
Tee tree

It’s a dead tree on which someone has hung an old tee-shirt, see? Not an actual tea tree nor even a ti-tree. Well, it made me laugh, anyway.

And I did see more black swans later on.

Black swans

As I completed the circuit around the lagoon, I realised that this walk today, although long, was my favourite so far on this trip. I never felt short of breath, I didn’t feel I had to stop for a rest, I didn’t feel like I couldn’t keep up with the group and I felt I could have walked all day. The perfect temperature helped of course.

A couple of guys were cutting back the vegetation at the edge of the path. The strimmers were loud, but at least the cutting stopped as I walked by. The only disappointment was seeing that they’d left the engine of their van running for no obvious reason. I turned the engine off and threw the keys into the bushes. No, of course I didn’t.

Part of the walk was close to the main road, and here I spotted more exotic birds.

Masked lapwing

The sign for the Tramshed coffee shop was appealing. I had to check it out because I suspected Liesel, Pauline and Andrew would be enjoying a beverage there. They weren’t but they soon joined me and we had lunch.

The tram

This was a good way to spend the day, on what would have been mine and Pauline’s Mum and Dad’s 70th wedding anniversary.

We drove Pauline and Andrew to the airport: it had been a quick week with them. Both were going into work the next day, after a three-hour flight and four hours sleep. Welcome back to Christchurch!

Liesel and I continued in a southerly direction, to Erowal Bay. This was supposed to be for a nice quiet and peaceful couple of days. But at the back of our minds always was, where can we charge the car?

Bombo headland

The b&b was easy to find, although we arrived later than intended, thanks to traffic on the main road. It seems half of Sydney are heading south with their boats for the Easter weekend.

Holy Cow! No, that’s not an expletive. It’s the name of the tiny Indian restaurant where we enjoyed dinner.

Liesel had some work to do, the b&b WiFi was dodgy, and her laptop didn’t want to connect to the mobile hotspot on my phone. After poking around, I fixed the problem, hooray. But in the end, even this WiFi wasn’t good enough for Liesel to work. So we tootled off to the nearby Sanctuary Point Library. Liesel worked, I wrote, and the librarian ladies were very friendly and helpful.

The Plough and Harrow, just along the road, made lunch for me. Cheese and salad baguette. I was going to leave some for Liesel. But it was so good, I didn’t stop munching until it was all gone. So, they made another one for Liesel.

In the library, meanwhile, Liesel was plugging away at whatever she was working on, but she had to tell someone else to stfu because he was unwittingly singing along to the music in his headphones!

All work and no play makes Liesel a dull girl, so in the afternoon we headed for Collingwood Beach, parking up at Valencia. The beach was all but deserted and we enjoyed a nice, long stroll, on the squeaky white sand.

Collingwood Beach

We walked the full length of the beach, as far as the creek, which we could have waded across, but nah, not today.

Moona Moona Creek

Time to charge the car. What a nightmare. The provider associated with the car rental company only has slow chargers. We needed a fast charge. We found one, so we drove there. The card scanner didn’t work, which meant we had to download the app. The app isn’t available in this country. Despite having an Australian SIM card, as far as Google Playstore is concerned, I am still in the UK. So I called the helpline. The lady was very sympathetic but couldn’t do much to help. What if I give you my card number so I can pay that way? Nope. But she did give us a couple of other leads. Which is why we found ourselves in Gerringong. This EV charger was slow, but at least it connected, and I was able to download its app. We might not be stranded after all.

Gerringong Bowling was very welcoming. We bacme temporary members so while waiting for the car to sort itself out, we ate our dinner. It was also Trivia Night here, so we decided to have a go. Our two-person team was called The Antics.

After the first round, we were tied leaders with 8 out of 10 points. We should have stopped there. Two music rounds were almost fruitless. The picture rounds were Aussie-oriented. We ended the quiz with a total of 30. Sadly, there was no prize for coming last. Dinner was good but I think we’ve both had enough French fries for the time being, the portions are huge!

The car needed more oomph and we decided to return to Gerringong for the day. It would take another 9 hours to fully charge the beast. But our first port of call the next morning was Hyams Beach, famous for its squeaky sand. It was a busy place, lots of families here for Good Friday.

Selfie of the day
Blue sky and Moon

Proper sky blue sky here today too, fabulous. And congratulations to nephew Rob who is now a Canadian citizen, they’re very lucky to have him.

Rob the Canadian

Back to Gerringong where we plugged the car in for several hours. While waiting, we had a quick walk on the beach, and a sit down, watching people, boats and even a helicopter.

Gerringong Beach

When the Bowling Club opened, we joined again, just by showing our driving licences. Nobody was pointing at us for being total losers at the quiz last night: so glad I was wearing a false beard and glasses, and so was Liesel.

Lunch was great, no chips, but a lot of bread!

So while at Gerringing Bowlo this arvo, we could play bingo or even music bingo, we could place bets at Keno, we could have eaten at Cabo Pacific Grill and then after all that, we could book a cab home via Rydo.

Instead, we watched some people playing bowls, mostly in bare feet.

Bowlers

After charging for five hours (!), the car finally had enough charge to take us home. It shouldn’t have been this stressful and anxiety-inducing. But it has been a wonderful learning experience. Liesel and I had previously agreed that our next car should be electric. But our confidence has been shaken. There are too many variables: fast and slow chargers, different cables, different ways to pay, you might not be able to download a required app for arbitrary reasons, and then of course, you might turn up at a suitable place only for the equipment not to be working that day.

I tried to steer clear of the red zone in the bed, but it was a fruitless endeavour. When I woke up, I realised what a ridiculous dream it had been. It was time to return the rental car. The ‘assistant’ wasn’t bothered by our comments. The navigation system in the car tells you where the charging points are. It does, yes, but most are unsuitable, you can’t just rock up with a BYD at a Tesla charging station and expect it to work. His apathy made us forget to tell him that the vehicle was only 60% charged when we collected it, but when the email arrives inviting our comments, well, I’m rubbing my hands in anticipation…

We have a couple more hire cars booked, and I can confirm that both are gas-guzzling vehicles with infernal combustion engines, but at least we know we’ll pass petrol stations on a regular basis.

We went to Sydney Airport via bus to the Mall for breakfast then a bus to Manly then a ferry to Circular Quay then a train to the airport. Yes, Liesel was off to Honolulu to meet her Mom and bring her back to Brookvale. We remarked on how easy and relaxed the journey to the airport was, compared with our EV experience this week. Liesel checked in OK, and after a coffee, she headed for the departure gates while I headed off for the city sights.

On the train, we’d wondered where Museum Station would take us. Well, of course, on my return to the city, I found it was The Australian Museum. Which I already knew. I didn’t visit today because there’s a chance we’ll come along with Leslie, Liesel’s Mom, at some point.

I wandered close to Chinatown, and generally walked in a downwards direction, back to Circular Quay, then beyond, to the Opera House.

Sydney Opera House

People were still walking up and over Sydney Harbour Bridge, but I didn’t have time to do that (!): instead I set myself the task of taking a picture of the Bridge at sunset. Rotten timing though. The best shots were taken from the ferry back to Manly.

Sunset over Sydney Harbour Bridge

Back at home, where I arrived much later than I thought I would, I recorded the nightlife, whether it be frogs or grasshoppers or whatever and then for my supper, I had a cheese and chutney sandwich with the sourdough loaf we’d bought earlier.

A few days ago, Helen asked me if I’d be alright on Saturday night on my own. I responded ‘Yes’ almost before she’d finished posing the question! So here I was, by myself on a Saturday night, in someone else’s flat. A perfect opportunity for a rave, I thought, so I invited a few friends over and we had a great party, lots of drum’n’bass turned up to 11.

Build Your Dreams

Liesel and I have walked from Coogee Beach to Bondi a couple of times in the past, a very enjoyable trek it is too. We abandoned plans to repeat this footslog today with Pauline and Andrew, because of time constraints. Plus, due to work commitments, Liesel wouldn’t join us anyway. So, to plan B.

Pauline, Andrew and I caught a bus to Manly: a 167, the one that goes all round the houses, offering views of some of the other beaches through dirty windows. It was also the smelliest bus ride of our trip so far, I think they must have just retrieved it from the musty basement of a museum.

After disembarcation at Queenscliff, we walked along the prom, passing a couple of old friends on the way.

Sulphur-crested cockatoos

The surf clubs have all moved on, so we could see the full extent of the beach. The sea was calm, but no, we still weren’t tempted into the water. Of course, we had coffee at Three Beans again, and we each consumed a sweet delicacy. Which ruined our appetite for lunch. A cookie, an almond croissant and a muffin, since you ask.

We walked along to Shelly Beach, watching some learner SCUBA divers, some snorkellers and some swimmers.

Swimming from Manly Beach to Shelly Beach (them, not me)

We continued walking beyond Shelly Beach: if we’d continued, we would have reached North Head, but there wasn’t enough time today.

This was a more challenging hike, up the steps, through the woods, up and down and we had a good time. Except when Andrew bashed his head on an overhanging branch while looking down, negotiating the bumpy, undulating path. Pauline and I stopped laughing fairly quickly. In terms of wildlife, nothing bigger than a few spiders in their webs and some butterflies and moths. The bush turkeys build their nests by scooching their feet backwards, and we witnessed this activity today, although we think they were just looking for food.

From our vantage point near the top of the cliff, we had a great view over the Pacific Ocean. A very large cargo ship made, from our point of view, very slow progress along the horizon.

Looking back towards Manly
Looking south

I found some of the steps hard work: inconsistent heights and varying degrees of camber, the steps were just rocks, really. The Sun was hot, but we were in shade much of the time. And then, out of the blue, a few spots of rain.

What’s this, then?

Wasps’ nest?

Well, none of us wanted to investigate too closely in case it really was what we suspected: the world’s largest wasps’ nest.

Back at Shelly, I got myself a tomato juice at the Boathouse, after which we moseyed on back to Manly, greeting a few water dragons on the way.

After a shower and a change of clothes, Helen collected the four of us for a trip into Sydney. To a casino. Uh? Yes, we walked through a casino to Fat Noodle where we enjoyed dinner. Brent joined us after work.

There were literally hundreds of machines, modern versions of fruit machines, plus a few tables where you could play cards with real people. I didn’t have a go because I knew it would take too long learn what I was supposed to be doing, never mind gambling for real.

The Star Casino

But the main reason we were here this evening was to visit The Lyric Theatre. We all thoroughly enjoyed the production of &Juliet. Yes, what might have happened if Juliet hadn’t died in Shakepeare’s famous play? It was great fun, yet, for reasons beyond my ken, I was nudged a few times to stop singing along to the music, which included songs by Back Steet Boys, Britney, P!nk, Katy Perry, Kelly Clarkson and more.

Mick, Liesel, Andrew, Pauline, Brent and Helen

Meanwhile, back at home, it was Odd Socks Day for World Down Syndrome Day. The grandchildren didn’t need much encouragement.

Williama and Martha

I’ve had way too many birthdays, and I didn’t really need another one. Yet here we are.

The main present, if I can call it that, was a visit to an Escape Room in Manly. Themed around The Dunny, we did indeed encounter redbacks and other horrors from the Aussie outback. It was a challenging hour, and the last minute seemed to last a little bit longer than sixty seconds, but we did just about escape in time! Thank you for the experience, Jenny and Helen and all,

Liesel bought me a chocolate birthday cake which, spoilers: I didn’t finish until five days later! I was delighted by the collection of cards from family and friends. A couple of puzzles to solve too!

Liesel collected our first rental car of the trip, a BYD car made in China. No doubt the American and UK authorities will be having kittens, because this vehicle will undoubtedly be reporting our movements and conversations to the Chinese Government. BYD: Build Your Dreams. It’s an electric car, with more features than you can ever possibly use.

Birthday lunch was at deVita Trattoria in Manly, tastes of Napoli and everything. Sadly, I couldn’t finish my pizza. It was just too big for me. It wasn’t the background music, naff covers of great songs, that put me off my food!

Liesel went back to Helena for another massage. Helen took me home for a birthday afternoon nap. I had to save myself for the party in the evening.

It wasn’t a party for me. It was a belated 40th birthday party for Rob and Nat, the venue being one of the many breweries in Brookvale. A great band played covers of songs by David Gray, Leonard Cohen and even the Bee Gees. I did notice that Andrew was not shooshed for singing along to a song by The Church.

Party party party
A different Andrew, Jacqui, Mick, Liesel, Helen

Thanks to Eric for the photo. I was dragged along to be in this portrait from a nice comfortable armchair where I was enjoying one of the many nibbles on offer.

And so another birthday draws to a close. I’ll leave the cards on display for as long as I can. And I shall enjoy the many varieties  and flavours of TimTams over the next few couple of weeks days, thanks Helen and Brent!

Tap Success

‘Who cuts the barber’s hair?’ is a longstanding conundrum. Ideally, another barber, I suppose. And so it is with Helen. She had her hair coloured at home by a fellow stylist/client, and she reciprocated. This is why Liesel and I absquatulated, making our way to the public library in the Mall, Liesel with her PC so she could do some work, me with my keyboard so I could do some writing.

As recommended by Helen, and before settling in, we stopped at Girdlers for breakfast.

I’d forgotten the joy of ‘working’ in a library, surrounded by mainly young people studying. In the olden days, there’d be a pile of books, open, a couple of note books maybe, a calculator, and a pen being being sucked. Today, they had a laptop, a phone, but only about half of the students had any books. Most wore headphones too, either listening to music or maybe to a lecture.

Funnily enough, when we first arrived in the library, there was a group of very young children over in the corner, singing songs with gusto. And there was no elderly librarian peering over her specatacles going  ‘shhh!’

After a while, I went for a wander (oh, alright, and a coffee) and I found this metal art sculpture.

Sculpture

Unfortunately, I could find no title nor attribution. Maybe I should claim responsibility?

Other than walking around the Mall, we didn’t do much exercise today. But it’s good to have the odd day off. But the following day was busier.

An early morning trip was planned for the airport. Helen and I went to meet Pauline and Andrew on their arrival from Christchurch, NZ.

While waiting outside her apartment for Helen to pick me up, I took this picture of ‘the hill’ on Pine Avenue from the top end. The photo still doesn’t give a real idea of how steep it is. You’ll just have to pay a visit yourself.

The Hill from the top end

The early morning ‘rush hour’ traffic was horrendous: I’m so glad I never had to drive to work in those traffic jams. The flight landed early, but it took a while for my sister and her partner to appear, thanks to a medical emergency on board the aeroplane.

It was the first time we’d seen Pauline and Andrew since Jenny and Liam’s wedding just over 18 months ago. So of course, it was  delightful to see them both emerge from behind the scenes.

Unfortunately, Helen had to dash off to work as soon as we arrived home. After settling in, P, A, L and I went for a jolly nice walk locally. The destination was Stony Range Botanic Garden. I think we all expected a Botanic Garden to be a beautiful arrangement of flower beds and rose gardens maybe with some garden ornamentation. But no. It’s a botanic garden specialising in native Australian flora. There’s a well-defined path, a few slopes and steps.

At the time of our visit we were lucky to be able to hear the birdsong even above the noise of the demolition work next door. I’m sure on a quiet day, it’s really pleasant in here.

I pointed out an active brush turkey nest to my sister, but she didn’t believe me: she thought it was some kind of compost heap.

Brush turkey nest

Well, she has a point. The male birds work hard to build these ridiculously large nests.

At one point, visitors enter a rain forest area and, on cue, it started to rain, but only lightly. We’re invited to notice the variation in temperature from one section to another.

Heart emoji?

We witnessed a couple of brush turkeys lurking in the bushes, but neither of them seemed inclined to show us how to build a nest.

After leaving this little slice of nature, we walked around the corner to a place called Brew and I. ‘Have a Brewtiful day’ suggested the notice on the wall. We did. Coffee plus a cookie (Liesel and I shared), egg buttie (Andrew) and pastel da nata (Pauline).

We can’t seem to avoid the Mall and today was no exception. Who says history doesn’t repeat itself? Pauline bought herself a pair of sandals, same model, same colour as those purchased by Liesel a few days ago at the very same shop. As Liesel said, they are now ‘sole sisters’…

In the evening, we attended Seventh Day Brewery for another pub quiz. We had pizzas from next door. Helen drove us to the venue and Brent joined us from work.

The quiz was good fun, but the acoustics in the place were awful. Way-ay t-too m-much reverb-erb in-n th-the sp-space. It’s hard to describe but it was very difficult to hear what he was asking some of the time. Still, a pleasant time was had by all. And no, our team didn’t win. But we did alright!

The last time Liesel and I visited Sydney, five years ago now, we bought Opal cards for use on public transport. This time, we’re just tapping on and off with our credit or debit cards. After a few failed attempts on the buses, I now know that any problems are likely to be due to faulty machines rather than something wrong with a card or the phone. In fact, now, seeing the payment machine flash up the message ‘Tap Success’ gives a little dopamine hit, a surge of relief. Probably not as exciting as winning the lottery but you take it when you can! You have to tap on and off buses. You have to tap on and off most ferries. You don’t have to tap off the Manly-Sydney ferry in either direction. Fares are capped daily and weekly, and you find out a few days later how much you’ve actually been charged.

And so to the big city. A bus and a ferry took us to Sydney where we walked to Chinatown. I thought it might be a hot and sweaty walk but in the end, it was cooler today, so a very pleasant jaunt.

A Sydney skyscraper

A very modern city but every now and then, you see an old buiding nestling among the glass and steel of the late 20th and early 21st century.

The Edinburgh Castle

We passed by another intriguing, geometric sculpture, made by Herbert Flugelman in 1979.

Dobell Memorial Sculpture

We visited the world-famous Paddy’s Market, hundreds of stalls selling wares that none of us wanted to buy. Even the Rubik’s cubes and variations thereon had little appeal.

We admired the iron latticework adorning the balconies of The Miramar apartment block. We have no idea how much one of these apartments would cost to buy or rent. We’re not Russian or Chinese oligarchs, after all.

Craftsmanship – or mass-produced?

We did encounter plenty of Chinese eating places in Chinatown. So of course, we chose to have lunch in a Malaysian restaurant instead. Once you get used to it, reading Malaysian menus is quite straightforward: kari is curry, teh is tea, kopi is coffee, ais is ice. We all enjoyed our various curries. But I am very grateful to Andrew for not telling us about the monster cockroach that was playing under our table. Mind you, I didn’t tell anyone about the baby cockroach I’d seen in the toilet, either.

Jenny Munro

It’s always good to see a well-designed mural. But I wasn’t too sure about this one until I learned that it represents Aboriginal elder Jenny Munro who is still with us and campaigning hard for Aboriginal rights.

We spent a pleasant couple of hours walking around the Chinese Garden of Friendship, where Helen joined us after finishing work.

Pauline and Andrew

The koi carp in the pond were immensely jealous of the attention given by visitors to the many lizards on the paths and rocks.

Koi and water dragon

Inside, we saw a small but fascinating exhibition about tea. The beverage was apparently first enjoyed by a man sitting peacefully in his garden, underneath a tea bush, nursing a cup of hot water, when some leaves fell off, straight into his cup. What are the chances? His first thought, of course was, I wish I had a biscuit to dunk.

Andrew and I had a nice chat with a blue-haired girl who lives near Canberra because she can’t afford to live in Sydney, and who is three quarters Bangladeshi and one quarter Japanese, a most unusual and exotic combination, I thought. I felt awkward about asking if I could take her picture, so I didn’t.

One of several picturesque pavilions

Back at home (thanks for the lift, Helen), we ate outside: Greek salad at Pauline’s request, plus falafel, hummus, bread and tzatziki. Very nice, very tasty. No, it really was delicious.

Brookvale!

Singapore Changi Airport is, I think, our favourite airport, on planet Earth, at least. We only had a couple of hours to pass between flights to enjoy the quiet atmosphere, helped a lot by the carpeted floor. We missed out on the butterfly farm and the koi pond this time, but I’m sure we’ll visit those attractions on another occasion.

The other thing I like is that the airport authorities here haven’t felt the need to cram the space with ‘retail opportunities’. You can walk quite a long way along wide, spacious passages without seeing a shop, not even a coffee bar.

Singapore Airport means well

The only downside is that the cigarette smoke doesn’t know to confine itself to the designated smoking areas.

The second flight wasn’t as comfortable as the first: more crowded and hotter. Plus, my neighbour smelled really bad. Again, the crew acquired some decent veggie food for me. So, five stars for Singapore Airlines.

On the way to Sydney, I watched one complete film, Dune, and maybe half of another, Meg 2, during which I nodded off, but, to be honest, I don’t think I missed much.

Helen picked us up from the airport, it was lovely to see her, after having had not much sleep for 24 hours. This was our first visit to her (not so new, now) apartment in Brookvale. Needless to say, we didn’t do much before going to bed. We didn’t have the best night’s sleep ever, of course, but it was nice being horizontal. We couldn’t help but notice how much warmer it is here than at home. Funny, that…

Chez Helen

Meanwhile, back at home, Martha and William were celebrating World Book Day. Meet Hermione Grainger and Mr Fox:

Martha and William

Helen was woken up by a kookaburra, but I didn’t hear it, so I must have slept for some of the night.

We drove to Manly passing by some familiar but mostly unfamiliar sites. And I did manage to take my first wildlife photo of this trip.

Moth

Maybe not the most exciting creature, I know, but you’ve got to start somewhere.

The plan was to have brunch with Helen’s lovely friend Bambi and her gorgeous baby Gypsy. We met at The Pantry, on the sea front, where we have eaten before but not for about five years.

Manly Beach

Sun, sea, sand and blue skies, what else could you ask for? Well, in my case, a veggie breakfast. It was a joy to meet Bambi after all this time, Helen’s told us so much about her, and I think most of it is true.

So, what does she look like? I’m sure we’ll be taking pictures of grown-ups over the next few weeks, but yes, of course I took pictures of Gypsy!

Helen and Gypsy

The next port of call was the shopping mall. Liesel bought a pair of sandals, having thrown the old ones away. And I bought my first Aussie coffee on this trip, from Café Léluna. Very nice, very tasty.

Back at Helen’s place, it was nice and quiet, apart from a few exotic birds. I hope to be able to identify them at some point. Either there’s a very talented blackbird around, or maybe a mynah, or someone really did set off a car alarm.

In the evening, Helen’s partner, Brent joined us for dinner. It was the first time we’d met, of course, and he seems like a very nice young man! So what does he look like then? Well, you’ll have to wait to find out.

Because I have now disappeared from the UK for a while, my final Wythenshawe Radio show for the time being had the theme of Disappearance. You can listen here. You don’t have to, of course, but… FOMO?

Helen was working all day Saturday, so Liesel and I went for a walk. We planned to visit Freshwater Beach. Well, the first thing we noticed was, how hilly it is around here! Another stark reminder of how flat Northenden and Wythenshawe are. Again, we resolved to go for walks further afield at home, try and conquer some of those Peaks. Just to say, I struggled on some of the slopes.

Steep hill

I don’t know if Google Maps just likes to play jokes, or I’m still half asleep, but at one point we turned right when we should have turned left. We never did make it to the beach. But we did come across Freshwater Brewing Co where we enjoyed a coffee and a muffin (Liesel) and a huge almond croissant (Mick). It seemed a shame to miss out on the beach, but we decided to cut our losses and head back to the shopping mall again. We knew that, from there, we could walk home. And there’s plenty of time to visit all the various beaches around here.

Yes we did and sorry we didn’t visit this establishment

It’s late Summer, early Autumn here, although it feels like mid-Summer to us rain-drenched miserable Brits! Some of the flowers here are beautiful of course, with lots of bougainvillea all over the place.

Hibiscus

We found our way home, taking our time. Even though this was meant to be a quick, gentle, introductory stroll, we walked over four and a half miles, so it was good to stop and have a lie down.

Well, I haven’t so far taken pictures of Helen’s friends and partners (apart from Gypsy) but I did capture some more wildlife.

Skink

This little chap was visiting Helen’s patio and of course, I couldn’t approach too closely.

I thought I’d take a look at the night sky. Such a dark sky, despite being close to the big city, Sydney. We’re hoping for more dark skies later on, and after a bit of experimenting, I took this picture.

Orion and Sirius

I was very pleased it came out so well. The only accessory to the phone I used was a chair , on which I had to place the phone, pointing in the right direction. I set the timer so there would be no vibration at all.

And a jolly good night’s sleep was had by all.

Another year bites the dust

We stayed at Fountains Abbey for a week altogether and for some of that time, we had the whole place, the whole estate, to ourselves. To the point that when, on Boxing Day, we encountered millions upon millions of other visitors, we felt our land was being invaded. Such an outrage.

Fountains Abbey is bigger than I’d anticipted. Other than the roof being missing, it’s been well looked after.

‘Carefully preserved ruins…’
Selfie of the day

And here we are, equally well preserved, in front of the abbey. We spent a lot of time walking up and down its corridors and aisles. It was very special not seeing other people, just pigeons, crows and pheasants.

Fountains Abbey
Sandstone

We have no idea where the building materials came from, but the different colour sandstones look much more vivid in real life than in this picture.

Liesel
Mick

It was quiet and peaceful, just the sounds of the birds. And quite atmospheric too with the  medieval mist rising from the grass.

Moody, misty

We walked along the path by the River Skell enjoying the peace and tranquility. Pheasants were everywhere, many more males than females for some reason. We even saw bits of pheasant here and there, presumably the body parts that the sparrow hawks couldn’t digest. We saw a couple of red kites showing off their soaring and gliding skills in the sunshine.

Odd buildings attracted our attention as we walked to the gate leading to the main car park. We didn’t go through because it wasn’t obvious how to get back. Plus, there were ordinary people on the other side, and we didn’t need to mix with them.

Studley Royal Banqueting Hall

The Serpentine Tunnel was dark and damp and, as the name suggests, sinuous, so you never knew how much further there was to walk. The view from higher up was well worth the effort of the climb. Even if I was a bit puffed out.

Octagon Tower
Looking back towards the Abbey

Back at Fountains Hall, there’s a very moving war memorial

‘…for your tomorrow…’

It’s probably the wrong time of year to see bees, but we found a home for them.

Skeps

Joe Cornish has been taking photographs of the Abbey and the grounds for a few years now, since before the pandemic, and there was a display of his work inside the Mill. Apart from anything else, this was a reminder that I really should break out my real camera again rather than relying on the faithful phone for all my photographic needs.

Strider, by Joe Cornish

We never came across the tree with this gnarly old man striding in its roots. But I’m sure we’ll be back one day, there are several more acres in the grounds to explore.

The bad news is, Liesel wouldn’t let me scratch my name next to this 200-year old graffiti.

Old graffiti

Oh no, more bad news. Inside the Hall, we found this Christmas tree with lots of presents underneath, but Liesel wouldn’t let me open any of them.

Christmas tree

Christmas day was unusual. We spent the day snacking on crackers, cheese, chocolate, cheese and crackers, fruit, bread, crisps, snacks, so that when it was time for the more conventional, official Christmas meal, we both felt full and well, we couldn’t be bothered. So we had our nut loaf and all the trimmings the following day: maybe we’ve started a new tradition. But really, those snacks just shouldn’t be so tasty, filling and more-ish.

Having spent a week on our own, just the two of us, Darby and Joan, it was nice to venture out and meet people. Not just any old people, but an old school-friend. And not even a school-friend of mine. Yvonne was my sister, Pauline’s buddy from school, all those decades ago. Yvonne and Ian met us in Sawley, for a pub lunch. It was nice to catch up, even though we’d only met in August, with Pauline and Andrew.

Mick, Ian, Yvonne, Liesel

Our week in Yorkshire came to an end and we had to check out really early. On the way home, we diverted to Mother Shipton’s Cave but as always, we’d planned well: it was closed. But we did catch a glimpse of Knaresborough Viaduct, even if we didn’t take time to explore. We’ll be back, I’m sure.

It’s always an anti-climax of course going home after a short break. Nothing much to report here. Oh, except my old PC has decided to no longer cooperate. It won’t turn on. Yes, it was plugged in. I even changed the fuse in the plug. I hoovered up 3 cwt of dust from inside the case, wondering if maybe the thing wouldn’t turn on because the fans were stuck. No. I suspect it needs a new power supply unit. Which is annoying, because there are only a few things I need to transfer to my (now not so) new laptop. But the main thing I use the old PC for is to print. We have a very old printer that is not compatible with Windows 11. I spent far too long trying to find a way to get my laptop to connect with the old printer. In the end, I ordered a new printer.

I enjoyed watching the New Year’s fireworks from Sydney, a display probably visible from space.

Sydney Harbour Bridge

Of course, we weren’t there in person on this occasion and I couldn’t see Helen and Jenny in the crowd. Mind you, I only have a small TV screen, it was dark there and as it turns out, they were round at a friend’s place anyway.

The radio show this week was entitled Happy New Year! I prepared it before we went away, that was a hectic couple of days! You can catch the show here. If I were to say that my Christmas show was repeated on Wythenshawe Radio WFM 97.2 not once, not twice but four times in the end, is that a humble-brag? Should I take that as a vote of confidence?

I didn’t realise that the link to the radio show doesn’t always appear in the emails alerting you to another exciting episode of these Antics, so apologies for that. And a jolly Happy New Year to you.

Palm Beach and Sydney Observatory

We had planned to walk to Spit Bridge but over night, smoke from the mountains had blown in. Liesel noticed the smell, but the haze outside told the full story.

Haze over Manly Cove

Instead, Helen drove us to Palm Beach, where the air was clear and the views magnificent. We walked along the soft sand beach and up the sloping path to the lighthouse.

Palm Beach

Last time here, there had been a big fire and the vegetation had only just started to grow back. Today, it was lush and green and there were some pretty but unusual flowers too.

Red flower plus ant for scale

Looking down on the picturesque Palm Beach with its pair of back to back beaches gave us all the encouragement we needed to reach the summit.

Iconic view of Palm Beach from halfway up to the lighthouse

Barrenjoey Lighthouse

This is the place to come to see whales at the right time of year, but we were just happy to look out over the blue, empty sea.

Having walked up one way, we decided to walk back down the other, down the steps.

Descending

I was delighted to complete the descent in fine fettle, having passed a few young people, all puffing and panting and sweating. Then Liesel pointed out that we were walking down while they were running up.

Walking back along the beach and on to the restaurant, we passed what we thought should be our next hire vehicle.

Plane on the beach with no parking ticket yet

In the loo queue, I spoke with a lady from California, mainly about the British monarchy. She knew more of the cast list than I did, of course! Plus, she thought I had an Aussie accent.

We stopped briefly at Warriewood Square, a huge shopping centre, on the way home. Liesel bought the biggest suitcase in the world. Well, it isn’t, but compared with the small, 10-litre backpacks we’ve been travelling with, it’s enormous. Have we really acquired that much extra stuff? We have a few bottles of wine from a couple of days ago plus a very few other small bits and pieces.

We all caught the ferry into Sydney and while on board, I watched the Sun setting behind the suburbs.

Sunset from the Manly Ferry

With about twenty other passengers, I was waiting for the magic moment when the Sun would appear behind or underneath Sydney Harbour Bridge. I thought how tragic it would be if someone were to fall overboard in the crush. On the other hand, there’d be fewer people in the way of a good picture. The best shot, cropped to lose people’s heads and some ferry superstructure, isn’t too bad.

Sun setting behind the iconic Harbour Bridge

For the second time in two days, Liesel and I found ourselves walking towards The Rocks, this time accompanied by Helen.

Not a very convincing Tardis

Vivid Sydney is a festival where art, technology and commerce intersect. Three weeks of game changing ideas and seminars, amazing music and light sculptures that transform the city. From our point of view, the lights would normally be an attraction. But the crowds of people might diminish the experience.

A well lit hotel

Lighting up the sky

Plus, tonight, we didn’t need any more light pollution than was already present. My very welcome, late birthday present from Helen was a visit to Sydney Observatory, on top of the hill, above The Rocks.

Four Candles

The guide showed us round and it was interesting and exciting to be back inside a working observatory dome again.

Just about everything here is controlled electronically, so things are much easier than they were at Mill Hill Observatory, 45 long years ago, when I was a student.

We visitors took it in turns to look through the telescope at a couple of items. We managed to split the binary star ɑ Centauri and we viewed The Jewel Box star cluster too. Darker skies would definitely have enhanced the image.

The telescope just like the one I want at home

The planetarium was just a big umbrella onto which images of the night sky are projected. It was interesting to compare the sky in Sydney, about 120 stars visible, with a really dark sky and 3000 stars visible plus The Milky Way. There’s plenty of other fascinationg equipment and artefacts here too. Maybe a longer, daytime visit is required. Next time.

Henbury Meteorite – thinking of Sarah

We booked an Uber home rather than walk, fight the crowds, run for the ferry and walk up the hill in Manly. Thanks to Helen for being a wonderful host, chauffeur and guide today!

On The Rocks

We left Orange behind and drove towards the Blue Mountains. Preventative back burning is taking place, and we realised that the presence of smoke may affect our journey today.

We could see smoke haze in the distance, adding to the blueness of the mountains, but we didn’t want to arrive home smelling of old ashtrays.

Mountain haze from Evans’ Plains

We stopped for a second time in Bathurst, impressed by the extensive war memorial park. Bathurst claims to be the first inland settlement in NSW, with deep gratitude to a Mr Evans who opened up the west.

Mr Evans

There may have been a place of execution here, if the pavement markings are to be believed.

Mick’s in the noose again

The mountains would have moved towards us, I’m sure, but instead, we made the effort, mostly Helen, thank you!

Blue Mountains from Govett’s Leap

The smoke was still too far away to smell, but there was a definitely pall in the distance. The view at or from Govett’s Leap was fantastic, though, the escarpments and the gumtrees. A couple of walking tracks are closed due to landslides, but we weren’t planning a long walk today.

Big beautiful Blue Mountains

As usual, a little picture on a small screen doesn’t do justice to the scale of this place, it’s immense and so impressive.

Selfie of the day

And then we go and spoil it all by doing something stupid like taking a selfie in front of a terrific view.

A café in an old theatre with an antiques display at the back seemed like a good venue for lunch, if only we could find such a place. Blackheath rose to the challenge, and we found ourselves in the Victory Café where I had a liquid lunch, though not in the conventional sense of the phrase: I had curried sweet potato soup, vanilla milkshake and water then jumped up and down to mix it all up.

A very pretty tile just like ours at home

You have to walk through all the crap old and interesting displays to visit the dunny but it’s very risky, the aisles are very narrow.

Lots of antique artefacts at the back of the café

We went forth at Wentworth Falls, just a short loop, but a welcome bit of exercise after lunch. I could just stay there and look at this view all day. Not much happens, clouds glide by, birds swoop, leaves rustle in the breeze, but it’s so quiet and peaceful.

Wentworth Falls view

A bonus nother Selfie

Either we travelled at warp speed or I nodded off in the car but we were back in Manly in no time.

While we were away, the plumber had been in to fix the toilet, to cement it securely to the floor. After using the facility, I put the seat down and closed the door. Only the door wouldn’t close, it was obstructed by the toilet seat. The plumber had tightened up the screws, but only after moving the seat forward by an inch or so.

I found a saw and was about to cut a notch into the door, so that it would close fully, without bashing into the toilet seat, but Helen said she’d rather get the plumber back instead, to move the seat back to its original position.

The sunset is usually good from Helen’s apartment and today was no exception.

A Manly sunset

Helen had to work the following day, someone has to, I suppose, so Liesel and I were left to our own devices. After Liesel visited the local spa for some treatment, I met her over the road for breakfast. We can recommend Sketch, it was one of the best breakfasts we’ve eaten out, and we’re thinking we might return before we leave Manly.

We caught an early ferry to Circular Quay where I had a chat with my new BFF, an Aboriginal gentleman playing the didgeridoo. He’d been to the UK as part of a group, travelling down to Devon and all the way up to John O’Groats. They’d even played at the Edinburgh Tattoo.

Top didg player

We were here to meet an old friend, Maggie, who’d moved back to Australia from Chessington over 30 years ago. It was good to catch up after all this time. Our children no longer need babysitting of course, but their children, our grandchildren, might. She brought a friend, Carol, who I don’t think enjoyed the long-ish walk to The Rocks area for lunch as much as the rest of us did.

Pink telephone box

Maggie is enjoying retirement too and we talked about a few mutual friends from Chessington who are no longer part of our lives. It’s always sad when you lose touch with people, but we can be quite philosophical about it.

There was a cruise ship in port, dwarfing some of the older Sydney buildings.

On the ferry back to Manly, I realised we hadn’t taken any photos with Maggie. I’ll try to remedy that when we meet up again in another thirty years!

Another Manly sunset

Phhh-psst, sneezed the elf living in Helen’s kitchen. Bless you, said I. After several such exchanges, I investigated further. It’s not a little person after all. There’s a machine that squirts elephant repellant into the air every couple of minutes. And it works: there are no elephants in the apartment. No bugs either, so that’s a bonus.

Taronga Zoo

Sitting in Manly Library, watching the workers and the students. I’d finished what I needed to do and while I was packing up, I received two text messages. The first was “Do you want a lift home from the library?” The second, timed ten minutes later was “Never mind, we’ve passed the library”. So I walked back to the flat, the long way, via the beach and the back streets of Manly.

If Mark Rothko painted beaches

There is a mural on a wall in Market Lane comprised of several headlines from the local newspaper, The Manly Daily. Some are obvious but some are intriguing. Someone must have read decades of old papers just to find the good ones!

First car across Spit Bridge

Queen Mother thrilled by Manly

Flying fish hits Manly Ferry trumpeter

I love the big tree in the middle of The Corso, the main street. It provides a lot of shade when you jaywalk across the road. Which I would never do.

A nice big tree

Adam got up while it was still dark and went for a run before going to work, as usual. I didn’t wake up in time to walk down to watch the sunrise on this occasion. Helen was singing the song “Daddy’s taking me to the zoo tomorrow, zoo tomorrow, zoo tomorrow”, and so it came to pass. Helen drove us this time although we’d previously gone by ferry. Taronga Zoo in Sydney is one of our favourites, the inmates seem to be well looked after and the view across the harbour of the city is well worth the trip.

I told myself I wouldn’t take many pictures this time, we’ve all seen the animals before and everyone knows what they look like. Huh. I very nearly ran out of digital film.

We had planned to meet up with Jyoti at the zoo, with her family, but insomnia had conspired against her. So she missed out on seeing the Sumatran rhinoceros.

Sumatran rhinoceros (not a real one)

There was a sign telling me that because this is a model, I wasn’t allowed to climb on it. The implication being, if it were a real rhino, I could jump on board for the full rodeo experience.

Baby chimpanzee

The baby chimpanzee was adorable, as babies often are. We won’t ask what this little chap was drinking, but it was a hot day and it hasn’t rained properly for ages.

Cassowary

This cassowary wasn’t behind a fence, like the one at the koala place was a couple of weeks ago. With no obstruction, he looks even more prehistoric than usual, and proud of it.

Itchy platypus

We didn’t see a platypus out in the wild, we didn’t really expect to, so it was good to see this one in the dark, having a jolly good, satisfying scratch.

We saw some koalas too. Neville was on the move, walking along branches, heading for a lady koala. We even watched him walk backwards and then jump up to the next branch. The volunteer told us that Neville was missing a golden opportunity. He was ignoring the other female, the one that’s in season, ready to rock and roll. Don’t be like Neville. Choose the correct female for hanky-panky on pancake day.

Lady koala waiting for her man

Two of the meerkats were having a play fight, but they and the others were making the best of a very small patch of shadow in their enclosure. It was too hot even for meerkats.

Meerkats in the shade

When someone is being tenacious, not giving up with a problem, we used to say they’re like a dog with a bone. No longer. The expression now is, like a baby elephant with a bamboo stick.

Baby elephant v bamboo stick

It was a long stick, and he walked up and down with it several times, trying to bend it, breae it, pull it fully through the fence. Fabulous entertainment.

We took the opportunity of making a quick side trip to Sumatra to see some tigers.

Welcome to Way Kambas

It was a short flight, and I stood all the way. But it was worth it. Weather conditions remarkably similar to those in Sydney and yes, we saw some Sumatran tigers, of which there are only about 350-400 left in the wild.

Sumatran tiger (a real one)

There are three cubs, just a couple of months old, and they should be out and about at the end of March, ready for the public to see. Right now, they’re behind the scenes, seen only via CCTV.

Three baby tigers and proud Mum

We walked down via all the gift shops so that we could ride the gondola up to the top, where the car was parked.

Sydney Harbour

Looking across the harbour towards Sydney, just along the road from the ferry terminal. The drive home was good and we stopped off to buy our evening meal. Home-made pizza. A great idea of Helen’s to use pita bread as a thin base. Prawns and pineapple were two toppings that I avoided but we all had great, unique, customised pizzas. And a bottle of wine

This was our final evening with Helen and Adam in Manly. Our departure tomorrow has crept up on us like those Weeping Angels in Doctor Who. Australia’s been fantastic as it always is and I am really pleased that we’ll be coming back after a few weeks away elsewhere.

Anticipation of a big journey never leads to a good night’s sleep. Oh, never mind, we say, we’ll sleep on the plane. That rarely happens, either.

After packing and showering, Helen, Liesel and I walked down to Manly Beach for breakfast. Any plans we had for a quick last minute swim were thwarted. (We had no such plans.)

Shark sighted

The alarm must have only just been sounded as there were a lot of people on the beach and on the promenade, still dripping. If the shark sighting didn’t put you off, then maybe the signs warning of dangerous currents would. Our plan though was to visit The Pantry where the breakfast was brilliant and the view of the beach breathtaking. Helen showed me how to make an Instagram story, probably a vital skill in the 21st century, but what a palaver for something that self-destructs after 24 hours!

Statue of a bloke and a bike

Helen kindly dropped us off at the airport again and while driving there, we watched the clouds building up, wondering whether it would rain on the clothes currently out drying on the balcony.

Liesel and I rendezvoused with Jyoti who had spent the last few days with her family elsewhere in Sydney. We checked in (there’s a whole story there), got through security (there’s a whole story there, too), I ate my apple, we bought snacks and waited to board the plane.

It’s raining in Sydney, at least at the airport

I only wish we were in the Canaries again. Then, I could say, the rain on the plane falls mainly in Spain. But we’re not. We’re off to sunny Singapore instead. This venue wasn’t originally on our list, but Jyoti used to live there, so Liesel and I are going with her for three weeks and spending another couple of weeks in Malaysia on our own. Exciting but I’m a bit trepidatious, those being two countries I’d never seriously thought I’d ever go to. An unexpected adventure.

Farewell Aussie desert

Somewhere in the northern expanse of Australia, we caught our final glimpse of the desert for now.