Travels – Page 4 – Mick and Liesel's Antics

Sunrise, Sunset

By the time I woke up, Liesel had already gone back to check up on Mom and Buzz and to take them shopping. I had a very peaceful day in Cath and Hans’s house, looking out over the city and Turnagain Arm, admiring the mountains, reading and writing.

Later in the afternoon, I watched the fog ‘rolling in from the sea’, and the catchy lyric took me by surprise by continuing, ‘My desire is always to be here’, and I thought, no, it really isn’t. I know, fresh snow is great, the mountains are beautiful, but no, I really couldn’t live here.

We had a very nice, colourful dinner, thank you Cath and Hans, but again, the vegetarian sausages here just aren’t very nice. Always worth trying something new, I know, but always so disappointing.

The atmosphere here is so dry. I’ve not suffered from cracked lips like some people have, and my nose no longer bleeds as much when I sneeze but we have experienced a new phenomenon here in this house: static electric shocks whenever we turn a light on or off, or just touch some surfaces.

The temperature difference between indoors and outside is huge. It takes a while to pile on the extra layers for the outdoors world. But on this day, I was glad that I had also put on my kevlar vest because on our return visit to The Dome, we witnessed some athletes throwing javelins.

We again walked several laps of the track and then Jyoti was kind enough to drive me, Leslie and Buzz to the Anchorage Museum while Liesel went to work.

The paintings by native artists really do show the beauty of the place, and they sometimes go to great lengths to produce their work.

Mountain views, 1947, by George Browne (1914-1958, American)

George Browne created over twenty-three oil paintings on location while climbing Denali in 1947, He summited the 20,320-feet peak as a member of the Bradford Washburn-led scientific expedition.

In addition to his climbing gear and food, Browne carried canvases, brushes, paint and an easel. He packed the wet paintings in a plywood box designed to separate the boards in order to avoid damage in transit. At 11,000 feet, temperatures reached 20-below zero Fahrenheit, and the paint froze. Some of the paintings have patches missing while others remain unfinished – a testament to snowstorms that had obscured his view.

I wonder if he was as tired as I felt after walking up all those stairs in the Museum just to see these paintings?

On the way back home, we stopped off at Fire Island again, as Jyoti needed some bread. I went into the neighbouring beer shop and took a while deciding on which can of beer to buy. I selected a bar of chocolate too. The assistant rang everything up. Then he asked me for my Id. Well, of course I didn’t have any Id on me, just on my phone, but that wasn’t good enough. ‘Without Id, I’m sorry, I can’t complete this transaction.’ Oh well. So I went home, beerless, dejected and pleased that I look young enough to pass as a 25-year old.

In the evening, we were talking about how you can’t really get lost in Anchorage. And I was thinking, I’ve managed to get lost in this one single house of yours, it’s so big!

Yes, I have played a couple of Christmas songs on my show during the Summer, because they matched that week’s theme. I did not expect to hear Mariah Carey’s All I Want for Christmas is You on the radio as early as November 15th. But I did. In fact, there is a radio station that plays nothing but Christmas music at the moment. I gave it a song and a half in the car, then we reverted to NPR.

Do something scary every day, somebody said to me once. Today’s scary thing was sitting in the car while Liesel drove us down the hill and into the city, over fresh snow that had been falling most of the night, so deep, you couldn’t see the road markings. In fact, at times, you couldn’t see where the road was. More folks were on the roads as we approached the city centre.

First we stopped to pick up Buzz and Leslie. Then to Jyoti’s house where Liesel’s Dad’s old Mitsubishi Eclipse from 1995 has been parked up for several months. Its battery was successfully charged overnight and Liesel drove the vehicle to its next resting place, Una’s garage. Jyoti drove the three of us up to Una’s too.

We were here for brunch to celebrate Pam’s birthday, and this was the first time on this visit that I’d seen Pam and Owen. Also, Gregg was here, without Monica who’s in Washington DC visiting their daughter Neha whose birthday was this week too. Like a huge game of chess isn’t it?

Brunch was fun, and loud at times! Then we took Jyoti home. Then we took Buzz and Leslie home. Then Liesel took us two for a coffee and to buy some house shoes from the very emporium where I bought mine a couple of weeks ago. Then we returned to Cath and Hans’s house. I’d just been ferried around in a car all day, sat, ate, chatted, nothing too onerous, but I was absolutely shattered.

After a gorgeous dinner, thanks again Cath, someone mentioned the C-word. And lo, in four corners of the room did appear a host of shiny Christmas trees.

And, of course, they are American-sized trees.

I slept, on and off, for nearly twelve hours, before getting up for breakfast. Liesel had gone out for her regular massage and then to work.

Sunset.

The mountain to the left is the volcanic Mt Saint Augustine, 200 miles away to the south east. It marks the start of the peninsula that leads to the Aleutian chain of islands.

The sunsets are long and pretty. Sunrise is also very pretty: I was dragged out of bed to see the early morning alpenglow on the mountains, and to see Denali, 200 miles to the north. It is the highest mountain in north America, and to think, in theory, from its summit, you could see into this house. If you could be bothered lugging up a powerful enough telecope. But folks have done dafter things than that, as we saw yeserday at the Museum.

It blows my mind that from this house, we can see the Alaskan mountain range, spanning a total length of 400 miles. And if that doesn’t prove the Earth is flat, I don’t know what will.

On the way to pick up Leslie and Buzz, I saw my first wild moose of this trip, running along with us, on the other side of the crash barrier.

A return visit to The Dome for more circuits of the athletics track and a quick go on the exercise bike. One which, I think, has the most uncomfortable saddle in the world.

Next stop: the pedicurist where Liesel, her Mom and I had our feet gently serviced by the grandparents of two delightful little children who were playing in the shop. We all complained, just a little, when we walked outside into air so cold, it had very nearly solidified. -13°C, apparently, but with wind chill, it felt like -23°C.

After this assault on the senses, we had a huge lunch at the Bear Tooth Theaterpub. Huge. I even had a pint of beer and a dessert. Well, because the portions were so big, both Liesel and I took half of our desserts home to enjoy later. An afternoon nap crept up on me while I was listening to a podcast.

Sunset, and the house next door revelled in its own alpenglow.

After the next prolonged sunrise, I watched the Moon as it crossed the sky, on a higher trajectory than the Sun currently follows, so I knew there was no danger of an eclipse this month. And, sadly, looking at forecasts for the Aurora, we might be unlucky in that department too.

Helen and Brent’s Antics

Top billing this time goes to my lovely daughter Helen and her new husband Brent. Yes, Helen and Brent were married on Monday 11th in a Registry Office in Sydney. Congratulations and lots of love to you both.

It was still Sunday here in Anchorage as we could only imagine what was happening down under. It was a rainy day as they took the water taxi over Sydney Harbour to the big city.

The happy couple here are dancing to Wannabe, The ceremony was a small affair, just the celebrant and a couple of witnesses. H&B did kidnap an elderly couple though, one of whom used to be a wedding photographer. So there are plenty of photos to look through.

Meanwhile, back here in Anchorage, the vacuum cleaner battery gave up the ghost after half the apartment had been given a good seeing to. Liesel enjoyed her now weekly massage and brought us back some very nice coffee from Kaladi. Asa and Gideon came over and took their Oma away for a while, so Liesel and I went for walk down to the lagoon. The Sun was low. Hmm, actually, from here, the Sun is always low in the sky, but we did go out late, and it was approaching sunset.

There were a few people skating out on the ice, but I had no intention of testing out the thickness of the ice. Especially as, just a couple of hundred yards away, the water was flowing quite hard and fast.

The Tony Knowles Coastal Trail is 11 miles long and we walked a very small section of it. Being Sunday, there were plenty of cyclists too. There’s a machine that counts cyclists as they go by. At the time we passed by, it claimed there had been 39 cyclists today, and 311 so far this month, which doesn’t seem every many, compared with the number of cyclists we witnessed on our relatively short visit. This compares with 5732 cyclists last month and a total of about 125,000 this year.

A passer-by commented on how glorious the alpenglow was, as the sun disappeared behind some clouds, and yes, the mountains did look pinkly beuatiful.

Walking around outside with cleats on my shoes was safer than sliding around on the ice, but it’s very loud, you couldn’t creep up on anybody. Plus, the noise kept the bears away, we didn’t see a single one. Crunch, crunch, crunch.

As requested, I put up some spice racks on the wall in the pantry, and organised the jars of spices alphabetically. Who knew there were so many Cs: cumin, chives, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, chili, chocolate, cheese, chalk, cats, confetti and so many more.

And now for some SRN. I noticed the Alaska’s News Source report on the opening of the Equity Center in downtown Anchorage featured a very special guest: me.

That’s another small contribution to my fifteen minutes of fame

When we first arrived here in Anchorage, Liesel suggested I grow a beard, so that I’d look more Alaskan, and fit in. Well, I’ve given it three weeks and I decided, nah, it’s not for me. My beardy days are long gone. And after seeing it on TV, albeit fairly local TV, that decision was confirmed, so I was, this week, briefly, clean-shaven.

I spent one whole day on my own as Liesel took Leslie into the office again. I entertained myself with loadsa puzzles, loadsa podcasts and radio shows. I did venture out for a fairly short walk, crunch, crunch, crunch up the road to Fire Island, our favourite bakery here, in what I think was the coldest day here so far, -8°C, brrr. I watched an episode of Planet Earth II on TV, something that Liesel can’t enjoy because the animals keep chasing, catching and eating each other. But it’s interesting, and sometimes, I wish I had the job of writing the subtitles.

Liesel took her Mom back to the Sleep Center for the results of her monitored overnight stay last weekend. Leslie’s sleep isn’t great, but now we know there’s a specific problem that can be addressed.

And 24 hours later, down to -10°C, a mere 14°F. Time for a change of venue. After a rotten night’s lack of sleep, I rose early to wash and change the bed clothes.

More exciting and interesting than the domestic chores was a visit to The Dome, an oasis in a Winter city, providing an all-weather training and fitness facility for everybody from serious competitive athletes to casual walkers. With a world-class turf and a 411-meter track, The Dome has room for all kinds of sports. Liesel, Leslie and I met Jyoti there, and we had a nice, long walk, inside, in relative warmth, round and round the athletics track.

There were some other, younger people, jogging or running fast. I’m proud to say that even though we weren’t walking especially fast, we did manage to overtake a few people. Sadly, these folks were all in charge of a walking frame or walking sticks. I am more proud of the nearly 200-metre long run (jog?) which left me nicely out of breath, not the horrible being short-of-breath for no real reason.

Outside, back in the cold, the sky was clear and we noticed glints of ice in the air, very pretty but hard to photograph. I had more success with the halo around the Sun, even if it was only partial from our perspective.

In the afternoon, Leslie’s sister Buzz arrived from her nice, warm home in Albuquerque, New Mexico. She was in for a shock! Liesel and I therefore moved out for a week so that she can use our bed, and there won’t be four of us adults fighting over the one bathroom.

Catherine and Hans live on the other side of the city, up the hill, and the view from their house is gorgeous.

The view from Cath and Hans’s house at night

We chatted for a long time before going to bed. In the middle of the night, the very bright full Moon illuminated our room, almost bright enough to read by.

While I was writing this post I looked something up on the internet and this message was splatted on my screen.

Of course, I clicked on the link to fix it and hkh afew fkehhcn rkjshfh
                    kiurnv,fvlk
                             klgjsl sdlkjs ..
                     ?<<,//.gd/g…… unghh..%(&%£..
                 jh&%&98.
                               …
                                  ..

Scissors

It was fun to chat with William and Martha briefly before their bedtime. Another opportunity for me to mess up my mental timezone calculations and get it wrong! I showed them the snow, and William set me a challenge of building a snowman before his birthday. Something else to add to the to-do list.

We visited a pharmacy to get our flu and covid jabs. I’ve had my flu one at home already, so I just need covid. I know how to have a good time. After waiting for a few minutes, the pharmacist said we couldn’t be processed right now because we hadn’t booked ahead of time. Oh well. So much for the sign saying ‘Walk-ins welcome’. Liesel took her Mom into the office and they obtained their inoculations later on, straight in, done. I’m still a covid shot down.

But while they were in the office, Liesel working and Leslie reading, I was having more fun walking by the lagoon, which is frozen. It looks fairly solid but I wasn’t about to walk out over the frozen water.

While walking on the path, I was overtaken by a few cyclists whose bikes had very fat tyres, and by one guy on skis.

No, I was not tempted to ask him if I could have a go. I tried skiing once, way back in ’06, and that activity is not for me. My backside doesn’t have enough padding.

The Lanie Fleischer Chester Creek Trail is about four miles long altogether, and I probably saw about one mile on this occasion. I then had to walk home up some very slight inclines, and the old shortness-of-breath issue came back. Not helped, I’m sure, by the fact that I was wearing more than twice as much clothing as I usually do: all that extra weight!

You can come across some random items anywhere, but I thought this beacon was a bit out of place. It’s at sea level, and when lit, you wouldn’t see the flames from very far away.

No, of course it’s not a bonfire beacon, it’s a frisbee golf basket, so, Liam, if you’re reading this, feel free to polish up your disc and come on over!

Podcasts and radio shows kept me company for the rest of the afternoon, until Liesel and Leslie returned home.

The Alaska Black Caucus (ABC) is a non-profit 501(c)(3) organisation dedicated to championing the lives of Black people and other marginalised groups. For five years they’ve been campaigning and raising funds for a new HQ in Anchorage. Today was the day the Equity Center opened with a Ribbon Cutting ceremony.

While Liesel was back at work in the office, Jyoti came over and she, Leslie and I walked into town to witness the event. I asked someone where the bathroom was. Down there, she said, but it’s not finished yet. There is still quite a lot of work to do in the building which, from the outside, is pretty nondescript.

Celeste with her big ribbon-cutting scissors

We listened to a few speeches but left before Senator Lisa Murkowski spoke. Nothing personal, we just had other things to do. She did smile at me though, so that’s nice.

Yes, I wasn’t quick enough to capture her face-on. Next time.

Because their bathroom was not yet functional, on the way home, we visited the 5th Avenue Mall. We had a coffee in the shop called Cake, styled as cAKe, since we’re in Alaska. I went for a wander to address my biological needs which were eventually satisfied.

I tried to find a pair of scissors and that mission was a total failure. I concluded that it’s easier to buy weapons in Anchorage than it is scissors. So I bought a gun and shot my toenails off instead.

I walked home carrying a newly-bought carrot cake for Jyoti, and, no, I didn’t drop it, but as we turned one corner, a gust of wind blew the lid open and that could have been a disaster.

In the evening, we went over to Jyoti’s for dinner. We celebrated her son Suvan’s birthday with cakes and we celebrated Diwali with fireworks.

And so we come to November 10th, or as it is known in Australia, November 11th, they’re always a day ahead. A very auspicious moment…

The American Dream

What an eventful week this has been in this here United States of America. Or, as some commentators are saying, the Divided States of America. More on that later.

At home, still in a Halloween frame of mind, Martha and William dressed up appropriately for Saturday morning kick boxing.

They also go swimming on a Saturday morning. I just hope they washed the make-up off before diving in the pool.

Here’s a very Alaskan thing we don’t see very often. Icicles on a car. Not to be confused with the 1980s band of the same name.

Here’s a very Alaskan thing we don’t see very often. A trumper driving around with a trailer carrying nothing but Trumpy, MAGA flags, Take America Back flags and nothing else.

This was the day we visited REI and I bought some new, snowproof, boots. While I went for a walk to test them out, Liesel was working in the office with Amrit. And, I’m sure, not at all looking at the view of the mountains.

As usual, my feet really don’t like boots, there’s always one seam that rubs, in this case on my ankle bones where the skin is really thin. Still, I hiked to the library and on to the midtown branch of New Sagaya where I rewarded myself with a coffee. Despite the snow, it was good to see families with children in the playground. It was cold, about freezing, but nobody was bothered and I was wearing an extra layer plus a scarf and a hat that covered my ears. I picked out the ideal Christmas tree for our apartment at home.

But I must admit, I did enjoy plodding through deep virgin snow with my new footwear, a true test of their waterproof properties.

I walked back to the office and once Liesel finished working, she drove me home. I spontaneously started singing the old Johnny Cash song, Ring of Fire, and then I realised Liesel had turned on my heated seat. Very nice having a warm derriere, even though I hadn’t realised it was all that cold.

We drove home via the Post Office at the airport, where Liesel posted some communications from work. The level crossing lights were flashin, so we stopped and I expeceted to see a train to pass by in front of us. Oh no, this is Alaska.

Leslie returned home from visiting Aaron where she’d enjoyed a football game featuring her team, the Oregon Ducks.

And in the evening we had visitors. Una came over bearing goodies and so did Gita and their close friend Sam, who I’d not met before. Gita provided the hot toddies, making for a very pleasant evening. They prepared a chicken dish for the carnivores while I had Quorn roast and roast potatoes. My broccoli was mistakenly subsumed into the chicken dish, oops!

Una brought chocolates modelled into a small graveyard: very artistic and very tasty.

It’s General Election year here in USA and early voting is a big thing. Liesel, Leslie and I walked up to the City Hall where they queued for over three hours to cast their vote.

By the end of the day, one of the other voters was calling Leslie ‘Granny’, someone was told to remove their MAGA cap, there were three dogs, and someone phoned their grandchild to say they were in line at Disneyland. Mean. The queue wound its way through the building, emerging to the outside world for a bit, before going back indoors.

I went for a quick walk to buy something and then I walked home. It was nice to see The Sun in Anchorage. Not just the real Sun up in the sky, but this one:

The Anchorage Light Speed Planet Walk starts here. It’s a scale model of our solar system. Taking the walk, you experience the relative size of the planets and their distance from the Sun. The scale was chosen so that a leisurely walking pace mimics the speed of light. On this scale, each step equals the distance light travels in one second (300,000 kilometers or 186,000 miles). It should take about 8 minutes to walk from the Sun station at 5th and G to the Earth station at 5th and K, just as it takes 8 minutes for a light beam to travel from the real Sun to the real Earth. It would take 5½ hours to walk all the way to Pluto, located in Kincaid Park. Yes, poor old Pluto is still considered a planet here. Cycling, skate-boarding or skiing would of course mean you’re travelling faster than the speed of light.

I received Liesel’s message at home I walked back into the city where we all met up and had dinner in Humpy’s, next door to the City Hall. I’d not been before, but neither had Liesel, despite having lived in Anchorage for many years. I didn’t expect to eat all of my meal: American portions are just too big. This time, I did manage: veggie burger and chips, since you ask. We were again joined by Una. It was MNF. Monday Night Football on TV and, while the adverts were on, we listened out as someone behind the bar called out raffle prize numbers. Not ours though. Una was kind enough to drive us home afterwards, so we didn’t have to walk in the dark.:

Election Day and while the rest of the country was voting for a President who will work for foreign dictators, fossil fuel advocates and billionaires but not for ordinary Americans, women, journalists, the LGBT+ community, public service workers, immigrants, environmental advocates, scientists etc, guess where I was? In court.

Yes, Una invited me to watch a trial this week, and who could refuse an opportunity to watch a real life Judge Judy in action? From the observers’ seat at the back, I admired the artwork in Una’s courtroom. Two lawyers sat in front of me, standing to question the witnesses. I’ve probably watched too many US TV dramas, so I just assumed the attorney wearing the black suit was the baddie, the one with the light coloured attire was the good guy.

Whenever they approached the bench to consult the judge, it was very hard to hear what they were saying while the courtroom was filled with white noise. I noticed that the jurors didn’t take notes, but a lot of information was elicited from the witnesses. I was here as an interested bystander, so it didn’t matter if my mind wandered from time to time, but Una has to concentrate fully at all times. Although she was sitting higher than everyone else, she still looked small behind the XXL bench, but that didn’t affect the authority she displayed.

I found a couple of moments of real confrontation hard to cope with, but that’s why I’m not a lawyer. And the other awkward moments were when the judge came in and left: as an observer, was I supposed to stand like everyone else did?

The session ended at about 1.30 after which I walked home, passing by a couple of cranes on the way.

Late in the afternoon, we drove back to the airport, this time to collect Jyoti who’d flown in from North Carolina. Back at her place, she prepared our evening meal, dahl and rice, and we were joined by Gita and their friend Sophia. Una and Phil were persuaded to join us too, and we had a good time, not merely because Gita again plied us with hot toddies!

Things are changing in America, and not just politically. In the olden days, maybe even last year, if you said ‘Thank you’, the response would be, ‘You’re welcome.’ Nowadays, the response is more likely to be, ‘Of course.’ And no, it doesn’t sem to be only young people either.

The day after Election Day, we walked back to City Hall to register our disgruntlement at the result. No, actually, we returned so that Leslie could retrieve the walking stick she’d mistakenly left in the polling booth a couple of days ago. It was warmer today, a scorching 4°C so the ice on the sidewalks was more slick than it had been yesterday. I acquired some grips for my shoes, and they are so much better than the cheapo cleats supplied by Royal Mail all those years ago. They actually stay on my trainers.

It was nice of Star the reindeer to come out and see us today: he’s usually in the backroom watching reruns of Friends, or something.

I stayed at home with Leslie while Liesel went out for coffee with Diane, visiting from Talkeetna, and a few more hours hard labour in the office with Amrit.

I think I know who my Dad would have voted for on what would have been his 99th birthday, if he were still alive and if he were American.

It snow joke

It took us an hour to wind our way along the queue to the check-in desk. Behind us were just as many more people. Going through Security was no problem, even if we were sent to Security A rather than Security B to start with. The Security A man maintained his patience as he sent us and every other misdirected passenger to Security B.

Before embarking on our first flight to Keflavik, Iceland, we dined on a sandwich from, er, Pret. Kevlavik provided us with a slice of pizza and we made use of the single toilet, which doesn’t seem enough for so many thousands of passengers passing through each day.

I read my book on the flight and I was delighted to see a place mentioned that I was familar with. My Dad’s Uncle Charlie, who I visited a few times, passed away in St Joseph’s Hospice on Mare Street in Hackney in 1978. The character in the book was in this hospice at about the same time. And, by the way, I can thoroughly recommend Mr Loverman by Bernadine Evaristo. I look forward to watching the TV adaptation when we return to the UK.

The second, longer flight took us to Seattle. We were separated again and I had a window seat, boxed in by two inhabitants of Seattle. The guy next to me said that his mother had called to tell him that the Northern Lights would be visible tonight. Well, from the bowels of Seattle-Tacoma Airport, we saw nothing.

I don’t think we expected to find someone’s laundry drying in the airport, but it was very colourful.

And finally, Seattle to Anchorage. The three of us ended up in the exit row, with more leg room. So that’s a bonus. But glad we didn’t have to do anything in an emergency.

From the airport, we took a taxi home, to Leslie’s apartment. After being empty since April, of course it required a spot of airing. And boy, was it good to be horizontal for the first time in well over 24 hours.

I was expecting see the streets of Anchorage paved with snow, but no, they were clear. It was cold though, just above freezing, as we walked to the bank and to Fire Island for a sandwich and a coffee. Nor were the mountains completely covered in snow, as I expected.

Delaney Park was a bit soggy underfoot. but so far, no signs of frost or frozen puddles. Yes, I’ve been anticipating the most unpleasant of weather conditions here but after 18 hours in Anchorage, I can confirm, it wasn’t as bad as I expected. The forecast though, that’s a different kettle of salmon.

Aaron and his family came over in the evening. I was unable to stay awake, so I went to bed really early. I heard the visitors arrive but I was soon in the land of nod.

Leslie’s car hasn’t been used for 6 months, since she left to join us in Australia, so of course the battery was dead. After one failed attempt, we managed to charge the battery and we went for a drive to Leslie’s hairdresser.

More exciting though was a visit to Carrs supermarket. We nearly fell over the pile of pumpkins inside the door. Yes, Halloween’s not far away.

Our nephew Gideon has been playing American football recently, and tonight was the final of the Alaska High School Division 1 championship. None of us were that keen on driving out to the Matanuska-Susitna Valley to watch the game: instead we watched it from the comfort of the apartment. It took a while, but I downloaded the relevant app to the much larger than ours TV, subscribed, and tuned in at the right time for kick-off. Or whatever it’s called in this sport. A funny old staccato game is American football so that what starts off as four 12-minute quarters ends up taking nearly three hours to play. Gideon took three punts, kicks during the game, without which his team, West High, would have had a much worse defeat against Dimond High. This was the first American football game I’ve watched from start to finish. The commentary was good but what a shame there was only one camera. Also, we couldn’t hear the half-time entertainment, which was very disappointing. But what did come across was how windy it was there. The referee would place the ball on the ground and, before one of the players could kick it, it would be blown away.

At least on this TV channel, we weren’t bombarded with innumberable, shouty, negative election adverts.

One of my favourite DJs announced his retirement a few weeks ago. I was determined to listen to the final edition of Johnnie Walker’s Sound of the Seventies, which is broadcast at 3pm on a Sunday. Nine hours difference between Anchorage and home so that makes it, er… And this was the weekend that British Summer TIme ended, the clocks went back an hour, adding even more complexity to the calculation.

Anyway, at 7am on Sunday, I tuned in and enjoyed the very moving show. Johnnie’s final link was heartfelt and the last song was Judy Collins’ version of Amazing Grace. Lovely way to go. But then some crass jingle crashed in and ruined the moment.

We drove over to Point Woronzof Park where we’d arranged to meet Catherine and Hans. We’ve all walked on this path before. The car told us it was 27°F outside, below freezing. On this occasion, there were patches of ice in places.

The trail begins right near the airport and as the planes take off, you feel you could reach up and caress them.

Looking over the water, another picture postcard, snow-covered mountain range.

You can see how crisp and clear it was today, but, because I’d put on so many more layers of clothing than I’m used to, by the time we returned to our vehicles, I was sweating. But it was good to catch up with Catherine and Hans again after all this time.

After studying this picture with or without a magnifying glass, you may be wondering why Leslie’s chin is bruised. Well, f’narr, f’narr, you should see the other chap… But actually, a few days ago, after our very first walk, just before we arrived home, she face-planted on the sidewalk. Sandwich went one way, coffee the other and slam, straight down. It took a while to work out where the blood was coming from, nose and/or mouth, but mostly, she was just glad that no teeth were broken. Nor glasses. I can only imagine how much more lethal Anchorage becomes when the snow arrives.

Which it did the very next day. I looked out all of the windows, and there was no escaping it.

Knowing the snow was imminent, we’d been over to Amrit’s office the previous afternoon to pick up a pile of folders so that Liesel can work at home. So, there was no real need to venture out today, apart from a very short walk, over the road to the New Sagaya City Market. I like the crunch of new snow, but I feel I’ve had enough for now. It continued snowing most of the day and overnight and it was several inches deep the next morning.

Next day, I watched a guy over the road with his (by American standards) small truck and his DIY snow plough. He was clearing the snow from the road in front of his house. I say ‘clearing’, but what he was doing was pushing snow into piles in the middle of the road, and then parking his truck on the relatively clear space. I know, I know: who’s the real weirdo, him for doing that pointless task, or me for watching for so long?

Having avoided going out in the car for a couple of days, we’d waited for the main roads at least to be ploughed, oops, plowed, and we again drove to Carrs for the big shop of the week.

Already there are big piles of snow at the side of some roads. Gravel has been spread around the supermarket car park, so the ground isn’t as slippery as it looks. I still find it a bit disconcerting that from a fairly normal place like this, you can see the beauty of the mountains way over there in the distance.

But the most surprising thing is that we haven’t yet seen a single snowman. I thought there’d be a few around now, at the start of Winter. The novelty of all this snow might wear off eventually, I know, but how disappointing. If you’re wondering why I don’t go out and build one myself, I’ll just say: In these shoes? I need a new pair of boots that can protect my feet from snow that is too deep for my trainers.

And so to Halloween. We bought some treats in case we were visited by Trick or Treaters, but nobody came by. So we’ll just have to eat those peanut M&Ms ourselves. Oh well. It didn’t stop snowing all day, but in the afternoon, we did wander over the road and you should have seen the witch that served our coffee.

So what have we been up to while stuck indoors? Liesel’s been working hard. I’ve been reading a lot and doing (attempting) plenty of puzzles. I did complete the New York Times crossword one day and I was looking forward to the following day’s, but thanks to some administrative anomaly, Leslie’s subscription to the Anchorage Daily News was limited to Wednesday and Sunday. D’oh! Leslie’s been reading books and is as despairing about the weather as I am. She does have a Netflix account though, and I’ve been watching 3 Body Problem, a science fiction series released in March. I’d enjoyed reading the trilogy a few years ago and at that point, I think it was the best SF story I’d read for a long, long time. The TV series is pretty good too. So far. We also have Apple+ TV here, so I’ve managed to catch up with and finish watching Ted Lasso, as recommended by Liesel and many other folks.

It was good to see Aaron who came over, and Asa who visited twice, once bearing coffee and shortbread and once bearing chai which he brewed up for us.

And so to November. The snow finally stopped. We knew we were being treated to something special: this turned out to be the snowiest Halloween on record for Anchorage.

Not sure if this link will work outside the USA, apologies if not.

Of course, pristine, white snow doesn’t last long. Just the next day, I had to walk through slush to get to the shop over the road.

Meanwhile, back in relatively tropical England, Martha marked the day as a Times Table Rock Star.

Well done Martha!

Quicksand

Autumn really has clambered out of bed and got its clothes on now. It’s that time of year when the Sun feels nice on your back but there’s a cold wind in your face. Sometimes Northenden and Wythenshawe do look quite pretty. Not to mention nearby ‘hoods.

This tree is in Cheadle Hulme, and we pass it on the walk from Jenny’s house to school when we’re picking up the children. We checked, and the mushrooms were still growing at the foot of the tree over the road.

Martha, William and I were dropped off near the playground in Riverside Park. I ended up chatting with a fellow grandfather, named Fred, which was a bit off-putting: I was counting to 20 while William hid somewhere and I was meant to seek him. Oops. We got there in the end, but I think my hiding places were better than his 😉

While here, I checked that my microphone was working and I started to record a short piece, a travelogue, for Wythenshawe Radio, about Riverside Park. This is for Our Earth Week, which lasts from 11 to 17 November. You’ll hear about it on Wythenshawe Radio and many other community radio stations around the country. I won’t be in England at the time. I was dead pleased with myself for remembering to do this today. I even asked Martha and William a couple of questions. It all sounded pretty good as I was going along. Before going home, we visited Costa, mainly for the toilet. But of course, I felt obliged to buy a babyccino, a cookie and a coffee. I played back my mini documentary just to see how good it was. Only it wasn’t. I had 26 seconds of me saying, ‘this seems to be working’, a rustle as I put the phone in my pocket and then, nothing else.

After that major disappointment at my own ineptitude, I let Martha and William use my phone for a while. I didn’t realise at the time, but they took very many pictures of themselves, and of me, with some filters turned on.

One day, I’ll be in the right place, at the right time, with the right conditions, to see and take pictures of the Northern Lights myself. Meanwhile, here’s a picture from Anchorage, Alaska.

Liesel, Leslie and I joined a large walking group in Heald Green. It was a walk we’d done before, and we were warned again about how muddy it was in places, and about the five stiles we’d have to climb over. It was a very pleasant hike, nobody fell over and it didn’t rain. We greeted some sheep, alpacas, donkeys and horses on the way around the loop. But the highlight was undoubtedly the family of toadstools in the field, not quite a fairy ring.

Walk-a-Day walking group on the golf course

At about the halfway point, we had a break on the golf course. Liesel and I hadn’t brought a snack but a kind gentleman whose name eludes me offered us Penguin biscuits.

We passed by a tree from which growns nylon rope. I didn’t think such a specimen would survive in this north-western English climate, but, it seems, nature always wins.

More interesting than that though was the huge greenhouse full of tomato plants. I don’t think I’ve seen so many in one place since Sarah and I were in Guernsey all those years ago.

After a quick snack at home, I picked Martha up and we joined another session with the Wythenshawe Star Gazers group. After a fairly clear day, it was overcast when we arrived. Fortunately, the cloud dispersed and we were able to view such objects as the Moon (couldn’t miss it really), Saturn, Comet Tsuchinshan-ATLAS, the Andromeda galaxy and the Seven Sisters. Unfortunately, our viewing conditions were less than optimal, as we were in a car park surrounded by lots of flood lights. So, thanks to Kyle for bringing along binoculars and telecopes. Martha and the other young people took part in a quiz, and they were each rewarded with a space-themed Lego set.

No, I wouldn’t normally let Martha lie down in the middle of a car park.

Martha took this picture and suitably annotated it

One of Kyle’s telescopes can be programmed to look at a specific object in the sky. It then sends the image to your phone, which builds up a picture over time. Here is one result:

Saturn, just before it disappeared behind a shed

Martha got home really late, but it doesn’t matter because the next day was the last school day of term. She was already tired from the school disco earlier on, so all in all, an exciting, exhausting day for young Martha.

Plans to revisit Riverside Park were shelved due to torrential rain, but I eventually made the pilgrimage on Saturday while Liesel and her Mom went out somewhere. I recorded about six minutes of nonsense, checking every few seconds that I really was recording this time.

At home I edited this down to just over three minutes and sent it to the Our Earth Day Coordinator at WFM. And that completes my commitment to Wythenshawe Radio for the time being. The actual weekly show, titled Happy Endings, was also uploaded to be broadcast as usual the following Wednesday at 10 in the morning.

Here’s a bonus picture from Wythenshawe Star Gazers. Thanks to Kyle and Dave for sending this:

Yes, the comet, as seen from Wythenshawe, despite being really close to the lights of the airport.

Let’s go to the seaside since it’s half-term. So we did, with William and Martha. And what a fun day we had at Formby, where we’ve not been for nearly a year.

From the car park, we walk up and over the sand dunes to the beach itself. On this occasion though, we also had to jump down a cliff, an escarpment. It looks like the tides and/or the rain have shifted a lot of sand recently.

Even though the Sun was out, the wind was quite cold, but that didn’t dampen the children’s spirits. We all wore Wellington boots but only the children wandered so far into the sea that their boots were inundated.

As the tide came in, we moved further up the beach and we finally settled near the dunes for our picnic lunch. Although it was half-term, there weren’t that many other people on the beach. Neither did we come across any jellyfish.

For a brief moment, looking south, black clouds threatened to ruin the day, but other than hiding the Sun for a moment, they were harmless. William helped(?) Martha construct a castle with a moat, and it was delightful to see the moat filled with water following one particularly large wave.

At one point, a police car was driven along the beach at a ridiculous speed, and I’m sorry to say I was hoping the vehicle would get bogged down in a quicksand.

We walked back to the car and then to the public toilets. Oh and look, the ice cream van is right next door to the loos: what are the chances? So we had a disgusting Mr Whippy and the best part, for me, were the two chocolate Flakes.

On the way home, William fell asleep on Martha’s shoulder.

We ran some errands in the evening and I finished off all the administrative taskson the PC which then left a whole day in which to pack for our upcoming trip, turn off most of the devices and run around grabbing items that we’d forgotten to pack in the first place.

We met up with the children and their parents for an evening meal at Albert’s in Didsbury. Again we bemoaned the fact that Greens has now closed for business. But Albert’s was good, as usual.

In the morning, our cab arrived punctually and we arrived at Manchester Airport in very good time. If we’d been a couple of minutes earlier, we would have spent less time in the check-in queue because we would have beaten the large school party from Derby! Hello Littleover Community School, we hope you have a great time in Iceland. No prizes for guessing our final destination.

Croeso i Gymru! Part 2

Before setting off in a westward direction, we thought we’d explore the area around Mermaid Quay in Cardiff. We were delighted to see a postage stamp size area of blue sky, but definitely not yet enough to make a pair of sailor’s trousers. But it expanded and we were blessed with a beautiful, sunny and later on, warm day.

Cardiff Bay looked more appealing today: well, we didn’t have to view it through mist. There was a group of male singers to entertain us down on the dock, deliberately performing songs that I couldn’t sing along to. We passed by a guided tour group, and briefly thought about joining, but I think we would have been hampered by the Welsh narration.

We spotted some TV cameras near the Welsh Parliament building, and assumed that wasn’t unusual. Well, today was the day Vaughan Gething resigned as First Minister so there was a lot of coverage on TV. Later in the evening, we failed to spot ourselves wandering around in the background of news reports.

We’re invited to hold the torch and make a wish for peace. Cardiff Bay is historically one of the first multicultural ports in Britain. Many people from across the seas of the world have come here, bringing with them their cultures and histories, their hopes and dreams. Cardiff welcomed them and now welcomes YOU.

Well, thank you very much, we did indeed feel very welcome here in Cardiff.

This memorial commemorates the Heroic Age of Antarctic exploration and in particular Captain Robert Falcon Scott’s Scientific Expedition of 1910-13. The memorial overlooks the point from which Scott’s expedition ship, the SS Terra Nova, left Cardiff on the 15th June 1910.

The memorial overlooks the point from which Scott’s expedition ship, the SS Terra Nova, left Cardiff on the 15th June 1910.

Designed and created by the sculptor Jonathan Williams, the memorial depicts Scott and the faces of his four companions, Wilson, Oates, Bowers and Evans, who died with him on the return journey from the South Pole.

Torchwood‘s HQ is accessible by a secret lift secretly accessible via a paving stone next to the water tower in Roald Dahl Plass plaza. I never knew Roald Dahl was born in Cardiff. So of course, we had to visit the water tower along with many other visitors, fans, pilgrims even.

Barry Island is the setting for another TV series, Gavin and Stacey and as we drove past a road sign pointing in that direction, we thought, why not? It’s not really an island any more, not since the 1880s, but that fact doesn’t detract from the fun we had here in the resort. And the Barryians(?) are very proud of Gavin and Stacey.

Liesel and Leslie had an ice cream but I chose to have that most Welsh of delicacies, a cheese and onion pastie. And we walked the length of the beach along the promenade. The funfair attractions weren’t in operation, so there was no debate about whether or not to have a go on any of the rides.

Nor did we have a go on the climbing wall, but we know Martha and William would love this.

The beach looked very inviting and by now, it was very warm. I’m sure it will be chocker once schools have broken up for the Summer holiday. Today, though, we just came across groups of children from three different schools, and they were all very well behaved.

I do like shop names that are good puns, and to see two so close together in one location, well, it made my day.

I think after our relatively long walk, we could have relaxed here in Barry all afternoon, but we had a bit of a journey ahead of us. Liesel drove us to our next port of call, in Haverfordwest, and I was surprised that our route included a bit more of the M4. We stopped just one more time en route. Our b&b was above a now non-operating launderette and after unloading the car, we had to park a bit further along the road.

We had a wander around town. Let’s just say, it was challenging being incredibly hilly. Again, it reminded us just how flat Northenden is!

There seems to have been an outbreak of yarn-bombing here in Haverfordwest. Many lampposts, fences, pillar boxes, bollards, trees brightly and brilliantly decorated.

And after walking up a long, steep hill back to our b&b, we were all hot and sweaty. Liesel did some work on her laptop and even had a chat with her boss, Amrit. No, of course I wasn’t in the background heckling…

After a rubbish night’s sleep, we drove to St David’s, the main reason for visiting Pembrokeshire at all, really. We explored the cathedral, and the lady who welcomed us there was repeating ‘no entry fee but donations are always welcome’ in such a way that we couldn’t not make a donation.

I admired the organ but I wasn’t allowed to have a go. I just wanted to hear the 32-foot long pipes making a very low note.

We loved eating a pile of Welshcakes for lunch thanks to Mamgu’s little place right next to the Cathedral.

We drove the short distance to St Justinian’s, the idea being to walk along a short segment of the Welsh and Pembrokeshire Coast Path. The views over the sea were of course spectacular and I’m sure some of the many islands we saw don’t even have names.

We found the path and followed it for a mile or so. Two of the reasons I enjoyed this hike were that I never once felt short of breath, my intermittent but chronic and annoying condition, plus, even though we were at times close to the edge of high cliffs, I didn’t have sweaty palms. And I even get sweaty palms even when I see certain views on TV. By now it really was a hot, sunny day, no sign of rain at all.

This lifeboat launched at some point while we out on the path, having walking around a couple of headlands, so we didn’t see nor hear it go out to sea.

We passed many other hikers, and their dogs, on the path and I’m sure some of them were walking a long distance. But I am glad I wasn’t wearing a backpack as heavy as some of theirs looked.

The Pembroke Coast Path is 186 miles in length while the Wales Coast Path is 870 miles in total. Today, I think we managed a bit over a mile before turning round and walking back. Still, it’s a start, maybe 0.11% of the whole.

Another night’s, let’s say, challenging sleep, up in the attic of our b&b above the erstwhile launderette. The place was lovely and comfortable, in a quiet(-ish) area. I say (-ish) because we did hear people walking by and talking late at night, and then we heard the refuse collectors in the morning.

Liesel was still working so I went for a solo jaunt around town. Of course, I smiled at the newly enhanced church gates as I walked by.

And the stone-built houses are very attractive. I wonder if they keep warm and cosy, or are they old and cold and draughty?

‘Seen one river, seen ’em all.’ Well, maybe, but it’s always good to walk beside a waterway for a while. And I’m glad I did because I came across a very good guitar player on the bridge.

Busker, or not? He wasn’t expecting cash from passers-by for his entertainment, he was just promoting his guitar lessons.

And if you haven’t yet been convinced of just how steep some of the roads are in theis lovely town, this is a good example.

It must be great living here, with gorgeous views over the countryside, but I wouldn’t want to have to carry too much shopping up that slope every day.

Today’s excursion took us to Pembroke Castle. And, following our experience with Dyffryn Gardens a few days ago, I double, triple and quadruple checked that I had set Google Maps to take us to the actual, real Pembroke Castle, in Pembroke, and not, say, a pub in Yorkshire named The Pembroke Castle.

We could have hired boats and rowed around the moat, but we didn’t need to risk any interaction with the swans. That’s my excuse and I’m sticking with it. Instead, we walked up the hill from the car park and wandered around the castle, not joining the official guided tour on this occasion. There’s a lot of history here, including some familiar and a few unfamiliar characters, some familiar historical events and some new to me. Ask me to tell you about the history of Pembroke, Wales, England, the kings, the wars, the battles, and I don’t think I’d be able to give you a coherent story.

Many battles have been fought in this castle and beyond, of course, not forgetting numerous invasions fought off with skilful swordsmen and archers and so on. But the main deterrent to any future incursions must surely be this, the simplest of obstacles.

We climbed a few of the towers, and I was pleased to see that from such high vantage points, you could look down on the whole of Wales.

After lunch in the large courtyard, we bade farewell to the fish in the moat and made our way back to the car.

Our downstairs neighbour at home had recommended a beach in Pembrokeshire, and now was our chance to visit as it’s not too far from Pembroke.

Barafundle Bay is a 20-minute walk from the car park, but the trek is well worth the time and effort. And it’s not until you’re right above the beach that you see it.

The sign said: You may be on your way to the beach for some sunshine, but Wales has been heading north for hundreds of millions of years. The rocks here tell the story of its incredible journey. And don’t worry – we still get plenty of sunshine!

The only sounds we heard were the wind whistling and the sea crashing on ricks below. And even the few sea birds were having a sponsored silence day.

Another thought crossed my mind today, too. The seaside doesn’t smell like the seaside any more, not the same as it did when we were young children. That odd mix of the sea, ozone, fish and chips maybe, it’s just not there any more. Barafundle was no different. Maybe there are just too many other chemical pollutants in the atmosphere.

We sat on the beach for a while watching the water and the people. We should have brought a picnic. And a blanket to sit on: that would have been more comfortable that the scratchy marram(?) grass we plonked ourselves down on. Oh well, we’ll plan better next time.

I walked up and down the beach, spotting only two jellyfish just above the water line. It was approaching high tide, so I suspect the young girl trying to rescue the jellyfish was wasting her time. I’m sure there are days when the beach is much more crowded. Under these circumstances, it must be hard to find your family and friends if you become separated. But they’ve thought of everything here. In the middle of the beach, there is a prominent meeting point in the form of an old, dead tree trunk.

We returned to the car, and back to our place in Haverfordwest. Being our final night here, our evening meal was mainly finishing stuff off. No need to take food back home with us.

In the morning, Liesel and I again discussed our rotten night’s sleep. But, you see, neither of us have slept on a water bed before so it’s been a bit of an adventure. Every time one of us moved, so did the other. It got to the point where we had to issue tsunami warnings whenever we needed to roll over. Or even scratch an itch. So altogether now, to the tune of Split Enz’s Six Months in a Leaky Boat: 🎶 Three Nights in a Water Bed… 🎶 Even climbing on and off was difficult. Why was it so bouncy, we wondered? Because they filled it with spring water, said Liesel.

After packing in the morning, we set the controls for a 5-hour drive home. A long journey, yes, but uneventful. We passed through a town called Bethlehem. And we passed by several opportunities to buy produce. The range eggs were free, but we didn’t stop. We could also have bought potatoes (Pembrokeshire potatoes are the best), straw, fish and chips, oil paintings, interlocking concrete blocks, budgies and more eggs.

The nice open, empty roads gave us beautiful views of the Welsh hills and valleys. Until we gained some altitude, and then we were almost in the clouds.

We stopped for lunch at a great place, Dolwen Valley Café. Liesel and Leslie’s first choice was fish and chips, but they had no fish left. My first choice was the vegan burger, but they’d run out. But, it was a great place, and the staff, well, she was very friendly enough and the coffee was good too. And I had exactly the right amount of chips and salad to keep me going for the rest of the day.

Welcome to England, said the sign, as we entered Shropshire. Seeing raod signs in only one language now seems weird. Shrewsbury was within a short distance, a place where Liesel once fell off her bike, an incident that she’s still trying to blame me for!

This visit to England was short lived, as we found ourselves back over the border, approaching and then bypassing Wrexham. The second time we entered England, there wasn’t even a welcome sign, just a small embarrassed sign telling us this was Cheshire.

Back at home, we unloaded the car, unpacked, and opened our mail box. Guess how many letters were delivered by Royal Mail while we were away for a week? That’s right: zero. Just the way we like it.

And I can’t tell you how much we loved being back in our own bed. So comfortable, relaxing, and… stable. A good night’s sleep was much appreciated by us both.

Croeso i Gymru! Part 1

Earlier in the year, we spent a wonderful couple of months in New South Wales. Now, it was time to visit old south Wales, but only for a week.

Our long drive to a small village near Cardiff included a stretch on the M5. The gantry displayed a warning: Reports of Pedestrians, and the speed limit was reduced from 70 to 60mph. And I thought, how thoughtful: it’s so much kinder to hit pedestrians at 60mph than 70.

The reason for visiting Wales at this time was determined by the scheduling of Jessica Lee Morgan’s one and only live show this year. So imagine my disappointment when, halfway to our destinations, I received messages telling me the gig had been cancelled. Jessica’s bass player and partner Chris needed emergency surgery, and of course, people’s health has to come first. Still, I can’t help feeling a bit disappointed at the news, but we were determined to have a good time in Cymru.

The route took us along some very narrow roads with passing places. And in most places, the hedges on both sides were very tall, so obscuring what we feel were some spectacular views. A couple of people riding horses in front of us pretty much blocked the road, there was no way we could overtake them. They pulled over into a driveway by a gate to let us pass, for which we were grateful. A little further along the road though, we realised that actually, that was the gate to our b&b, so we returned once the horses had passed by us.

Unusually, the b&b had no milk in the fridge, so I set off to what we thought was the nearest supermarket. And, as if to rub salt in the wound, this small shop was opposite what would have been the venue for the gig the following night! What are the chances, eh?

In the evening, we watched the Tour de France highlights on TV with, unusually, a screen even smaller than our own TV set at home.

In the morning, breakfast was accompanied by the rural sounds of, well, the smoke alarm beeping, because it needed a new battery. I disposed of a cluster of what we believe to be spiders’ nests. And I repaired the broken window blind in one of our rooms. Not having a gig to go to tonight, we could have explored further afield, but in the end, we stayed fairly close to our accommodation.

First stop: Dyffryn Gardens. Liesel was driving and I set the destination in Google Maps. As we approached, within the last mile or so, we commented on not so far having seen a sign to the gardens, but also, this is a very residential area, how can there possibly be a large National Trust property here? Well, there wasn’t. Instead, we laughed at the Welsh sense of humour, having a small road in a housing estate also named Dyffryn Gardens. I’m sure the locals are kept entertained by visitors making the same basic mistake with modern technology. I reprogrammed the thing, specifying Dyffryn Gardens National Trust. Well, it was a long but pleasant drive, and we saw more tractors than any other vehicles.

Apart from mopeds, that is. I suspect there was a moped rally somewhere. I wondered what fans of mopeds are called? Liesel told me: mopedophiles.

The gardens are well laid out, and we enjoyed our saunter around the various beds and displays. It was quite busy, but relaxing in the sunshine.

It was good to see lots of insects too. For lunch, I had a coronation chickpea sandwich, which was nice, but it was really hot inside the restaurant.

Not having any grandchildren in tow today, Liesel took it upon herself to enjoy the adventure playground to its fullest, bounding from log to log like a gazelle.

We stayed clear of the giant hogweed, but of course, really, it was just giant, Chilean rhubarb.

We enjoyed the wide variety of cacti and succulents in the very humid greenhouse. And as for wildlife, the only wild mammal I saw was a shrew, looking for a hole in the brick wall.

Some mysteries you can explain, some mysteries you can’t explain, and then there are mysteries that you didn’t know were mysteries until one day, you see something and begin to wonder:

Why is Spot the Dog called Smot in Wales? I really hope ‘spot’ isn’t a naughty word in Welsh.

St Fagans Museum of Welsh Life is a fascinating place, too. It’s a bit like the Weald and Downland Living Museum in Sussex, in that there is a collection of old, rebuilt houses and buildings from years and even centuries ago.

Pigsty, built in 1800, reconstructed 1977

We watched a couple of iron age men at work in the foundry. Well, working iron, anyway, I don’t really think they were that old. We could feel the heat from the fire, I can only imagine how hot it feels when you’re working right on top of it.

Slow walking gets to us all after a while and we have to sit down for an ice cream. So we did. We visited an old shop where the items weren’t really for sale, but still priced in old, pre-decimal money. I had a nice chat with the man behind the counter. We shared stories of how we used to go and buy cigarettes for our Dads and pick up a small treat for ourselves. Innocent days.

When I was growing up in Guildford, we lived close to a set of prefabs, buildings prefabricated and built after the second world war, as a temporary measure to house many people. My parents’ friends Pearl and Eddie lived in a prefab and we visited a few times. I think they were finally demolished in the 1970s. The prefabs, that is, not Pearl and Eddie, I’ve no idea what happened to them, nor Eddie’s very loud motorbike. But I felt that Proustian rush today when I walked around an old prefab here at St Fagans.

It’s been a long time, of course, but it certainly felt the same inside, as it was decorated in 1950s style, with plenty of old artefacts that I remember growing up with.

In the evening, we didn’t have a gig to go to (best wishes, Chris!) so the three of us sat around and looked at each other. A football game was on TV in the background: the Euros Final: England 1 Spain 2, but ‘we’ll always have 1966, eh?’

We were expecting lots of rain in Wales and on just one day, the weather met our expectations. We drove along more narrow lanes on our way to spend a day in Cardiff, starting off at the Castle. On the way into the city, we passed by some stunning Victorian houses, and wondered as we often do, whether the people that live here really appreciate how lucky they are to live in such a gorgeous place?

My first attempts at taking a picture of the castle keep were thwarted by big signs for the toilets and, from another angle, all the fast food outlets. We joined a guided tour which was interesting, and not only because the nearly 2000-year old Roman wall is still there. Well, some of it.

Inside the castle, each room was different, and the text written on the walls is in many different languages, English, Welsh, Latin, Hebrew, Greek. One previous occupant learned 27 languages because he wanted to read the Bible in as many different languages as possible.

There are many animals decorating the walls too, the occupants were great animal lovers, even going to the extent of banning hunting at some point.

This coal from The Lewis Merthyr Colllery was donated by Rhondda Heritage Park Museum to commemorate all those involved in the 19th century Welsh mining industry. Their labours transformed the fortunes of Cardiff and its Castle. It reminded me of Sarah and me taking Jenny on her very first march, aged 1 or 2, in London, in support of the south Welsh miners about to have their communities thatchered. Walking along Piccadilly chanting ‘Close the Ritz, not the pits’ is still a fond memory.

After the official tour, I braved the drizzle and walked up to and around the keep.

On a clearer day, I suspect there are better views but I just enjoyed the challenge of walking up stairs and steps with an ever increasing gradient.

Wandering around Cardiff afterwards, we couldn’t help but notice the many graduates in their gowns. There were also people from many nations and tribes, it felt more like London than it did Manchester. Having read about it in a few places, we found our way to Uncommon Ground Coffee Roastery, where we enjoyed the best coffee imaginable. I even had a second cup here, something I don’t do very often.

Liesel and Leslie drove to the car park while I enjoyed a walk to the Millennium Centre, in the very light drizzle. It was good to see some fantastic signposts for the National Cycle Network, Route 8. This is the sort of thing I buy lottery tickets for.

It wasn’t really a surprise to see that the Millennium Centre was the venue for the day’s graduation ceremony. Lots of grads and families milling about inside and out. Despite the weather, many young women were dressed for an all-nighter, in their Summer frocks or party dresses.

The poem inscribed on the outside of the building is very difficult to photograph. You have to get the right angle, try to avoid people and obstacles, try not to stand in the middle of the road and then there’s the contrast of a dark building against the bright cloudy sky.

Words by Gwyneth Lewis. It wasn’t, strictly speaking, a pilgrimage to this place, but it is somewhere I’ve wanted to visit since we saw it featured in the TV series Torchwood all those years ago.

I met up with Liesel and Mom in the car park at Mermaid Quay and we drove back to our place, in the rain. I like the dual language road signs, I’ll probably pick up some Welsh that way. But the word for ‘miles’ seems to vary between ‘filltir’ and ‘milltir’. It seems the inital consonant migrates depending on the preceding vowel. Liesel pointed out that, during the pandemic, when I was learning Māori pronunciation, maybe my time might have been better spent learning Welsh. She might have a point.

I would like to register a complaint. My Google Maps normally has a young, Aussie Sheila telling where to go and what to do. But sometimes, a harsh, bristling American woman jumps in with a fierce instruction. Why? I’ve got nothing against American women, obviously, I even married one. But what manner of bug is this, eh, Google?

Soil and oil

It’s always a joy to be invited out for coffee almost as soon as you make an appearance early in the morning. Or even late in the morning. And so it was that Liesel, Leslie and I walked across the road to meet up with Jyoti and her youngest, Gita, in the New Sagaya branch of Kaladi Bros Coffee. Breakfast for me was a bagel, though sadly not a jalapeño bagel, something I’d been looking forward to. Maybe they don’t bake them any more.

Liesel took her Mom for a medical procedure so Jyoti and I went for a walk alongside the lagoon.

Gita sent a mesage from the garden centre, our cue to drive over and join her. As it was such a beautiful day, Gita gave us fifteen minutes to arrive, otherwise she’d leave and go sunbathing…

Jyoti and Gita bought some houseplants, while my job was to find some hooks and a chain with which to hang the hanging basket that Aaron had given Mom for Mothers’ Day. Mothers’ Day in America doesn’t coincide with Mothering Sunday at home.

Jyoti also purchased a bag of Alaska Organic Soil and I had nothing better to do for a minute, so I read the ingredients.

Yes, this soil contains bits of fish, thanks to bears who have enjoyed salmon from the rivers and dropped scraps in the woods.

Back at home, I made myself quite busy while Liesel and Mom were still out. I didn’t find a chain, but I managed to hang the basket on the balcony using a couple of hooks and some bendy wire.

In the living room, there is a large jar of M&Ms. We’ve all dipped into it from time to time. Liesel thought she might be over-indulging and asked me to hide the jar. Well, I thought that seemed a bit harsh on her Mom, so, instead, I put a note inside the jar saying ‘No, Liesel’ illustrated with an angry cartoon face. I hoped this would be deterrent enough.

Sod’s law: it was Mom who came across the note first and, sadly, it made her lose her appetite for M&Ms. For a while, anyway.

Leslie’s surgery had gone well, and I was surprised to see that she had much less dressing on her eye than I did after my own cataract surgery. But, she has to apply eye drops for several days, something I don’t remember having to do.

In the evening, Una took me out for dinner, thank you very much, and we had a lovely chat. We chose Mexican and the portion size on this occasion was only slightly too big for me.

Leslie’s other eye was operated on the following day, again, fully successfully. While she was out, I went for a solo walk. Westmark Anchorage Hotel and Conference Center is nothing special from an architectural point of view but it was nice to see the flags of many nations flying outside. Pedantic old me couldn’t help but notice the Union Flag was flying upside down, popularly thought to be a sign of distress.

I didn’t expect to bump into an old friend, but I did. Star the reindeer has been here for many years, but I don’t know whether or not he’s the original Star.

Rubbish picture, because of the thick layer of dirty glass between us. Still, always good to see some wildlife, sort of.

In Leslie’s apartment block, we all attended the May Spring Fling Happy Hour. This was an opportunity to meet some of the other people who live here. Wine and nibbles were supplied. At first, Leslie wasn’t that keen, so Liesel went by herself to the community area on the top floor of the other block. I must have nodded off, but when I came to, Leslie said whe would attend after all, so we wandered over, through the courtyard.

And it was an even later night than usual when we all went to the airport to welcome Leslie’s Aunt Buzz, who is visiting for a week from her home in Albuquerque. As Liesel remarked, Buzz could be Leslie’s twin, so easy to recognise as she emerged from the secure area. And here was another chance to see some wildlife, sort of.

In fact, there are very many stuffed animals at Anchorage Airport, but I am too intimidated by American Airport rules and officials to risk taking too many pictures.

The other night, we couldn’t see any sand hill cranes. But they are here, and of all places, I was surprised to see them on the front page of the daily newspaper.

That’s today’s Anchorage Daily News, the paper that also prints the challenging New York Times crossword every day. Point Woronzof, that’s where we enjoyed a stroll just a few days ago.

So, in an effort to see some actual, living animals, in the flesh, the now four of us went for a walk on the boardwalk at Potter Marsh. It was cloudy, but otherwise, another ideal day for a walk. The only disappointment here was seeing so much oil on the surface of the water.

But this doesn’t seem to deter plenty of migratory birds from enjoying everything on offer here. We saw many swallows, for example. Most exciting, maybe, was seeing an eagle on his nest, a long way over there. I tried to get a photo by holding up my phone to the binoculars.

I know it’s not a prize-winning photo, but he is a long way off and the binoculars’ lenses showed signs of having been outdoors in harsh conditions for a long time. This little chap was a lot closer.

The green-winged teals were playing chase in the stream: whether the male caught up with and ‘became friends with’ the female, I don’t know.

On a white board near the entrance to the boardwalk, there was a list of birds spotted by other visitors during today. Our list of sightings is very modest in comparison.

I’m particularly sorry that none of us saw a moose on the wing.

In the afternoon, we started packing.

In the evening, we attended Alexa’s graduation party at her home. We were happy to meet Asa’s girlfriend’s parents and grandmother, who prepared loads of food for us and many other guests.

It was time for me to come home. The original plan was for Liesel to come as well, with Mom, but after the latter’s surgery, she’s not allowed to fly for a month. They’ll both join me at the end of June.

Liesel took me to the airport early. In fact, an hour earlier than necessary due to us misremembering the flight schedule. So I had plenty of time to eat breakfast, have a coffee, admire the dead, stuffed animals again, and read my book. The flight to rainy Seattle was uneventful. No dead animals at Seattle Airport, but there were a couple of buskers entertaining us. I found the vegetarian restaurant that Liesel had told me about, Floret, and I enjoyed my salad and chips. The flight to Reykjavic was uneventful. Well, apart from the fuselage rattling, sounding like industrial strength tinnitus. Plus, the overhead locker was very difficult to open. I think that plane might be due some repairs. I finished one book and started another. And when I tried to, I just could not get to sleep. The flight to Manchester was uneventful, and still, no sleep. All three flights were full so I could not spread ouit, nor have a good, proper stretch.

Jenny was kind enough to pick me up and take me home where I was pleased, after being in transit for about 21 hours, to be able to lie down again.

My luggage arrived just three long, nap-filled, worried days later.

While I was airborne, Liesel managed to get out for a nice hike with Jyoti, Una and Phil.

I’m sorry I missed Asa’s graduation party but by all accounts, it was very enjoyable.

Now, to sleep, to unpack and to start addressing the ‘To do’ list that was compiled while I was away.

Aurora furore

I never thought I’d spend a good half hour watching a woman making a basket, but that’s the way the dice roll these days.

As usual on this fine morning, Leslie went to the local school to play with the Kindergartners. She loves it but isn’t so keen on coming home with green paint on her fingers. ‘But I did wash my hands’, she insists.

Someone had a lovely birthday present.

You have to admire whoever drove this car to the car park while it was wrapped in clingfilm. For a start, how did they get in? Anyway, Happy Birthday, stranger!

After working in the morning (Liesel) and writing (moi), we were now walking to Originale, a delightful Italian restaurant, in beautiful downtown Anchorage. Not only was the food great, they offered small and large portions. Small was big enough for Liesel and me. Best of all, Monica joined us for her lunch break.

Afterwards, we all went to the Museum where, by coincidence, Monica usually spends her working day.

Monica returned to work, while Liesel and I walked around Anchorage Museum.

Trailing by Alia Shahab and Michel Gignac

Inspired by otherworldly light phenomena found in nature, such as bioluminescent plankton and the aurora borealis, Trailing is activated by motion.

Artists Alia Shahab and Michel Gignac created Trailing from thousands of fiberoptic cables affixed to a canopy of wooden hexagons – a shape chosen for its strength and spatial efficiency, as well as its abundance In nature.

As visitors move through the installation, activated strands glow an aqua-green, illuminating a path of motion. Trailing uses over a thousand tiny microcontrollers, which are triggered mechanically by physical movement of the fiberoptic cables. Like many bioluminescent animals that glow blue-green when agitated, the tendrils glow with a rich green light when someone brushes up against the cables. As the swaying slows, the cables fade to dark. For Shahab and Gignac, the flickering and fading light references the ephemeral effects of light found in our oceans and skies and encourages reflection and play between humans and the environment.

The accompanying exhibition of bioluminescent fish was interesting too. Just a couple of weeks ago, our William drew a picture of an angler fish, so it was nice to be able to send him a photo of a real one.

We saw a large container full of plastic baling straps, or strapex, as we used to call it. I remember walking around on that stuff at work, most of the magazines and brochures were bound together with that stuff. One use only before being chucked out. But one lovely lady decided to do something about it.

Hawai’i-based artist Gaye Chan develops projects that create opportunities for exchange outside of market and state control, such as free stores, guerilla gardens, and community meals. Carrying Capacity is a durational project Chan began in 2012, stemming from a chance encounter at a produce distribution company. Chan had gone with the intention of getting a case of overripe tomatoes for pasta sauce when she noticed heaps of baling straps in the loading area. As commodities move across the globe, baling straps like these are found binding box to box, paper to paper, and everything to pallets, which are tucked into containers for shipping. They are used once and then discarded into the waste stream. Unable to simply walk away, Chan gave herself the task of figuring out how to reuse the mountains of plastic straps. After watching countless YouTube videos on basket-making methods from around the world, she developed a basic weaving technique.

Eleven years and over a thousand baskets later, Chan continues to extend the life of this waste’ material through making and skill-sharing. She says, “I think I’m coming at this material not only to get it out of the waste stream, but to ask why we end up with all this junk in the first place. The obvious answer is the dysfunctional global capitalist system of moving goods around, and the residue that gets left in the wake of commerce. I use this material in a very tangible way, but each strap embodies the broader systems of violence and exploitation.”

Today, an estimated 90 percent of the world’s goods are transported by sea. In 2020, about 1.85 billion metric tons of cargo were shipped globally, up from some 0.1 billion metric tons just 40 years earlier in 1980. It follows that baling straps are found in abundance almost anywhere in the world, including remote Alaska villages as well as in Chan’s home in Hawaii. The Alaska iteration of Carrying Capacity partners Chan and her students over Zoom with basket makers and novices in the Anchorage area to learn, experiment, and create baskets together.

And it was Gaye Chan who engaged me for half hour, making a basket from the waste material.

As usual, we left the Museum having seen some good stuff, but a bit stiff from the slow walking. We said we’d visit again next week.

On the walk home, we happened to pass JC Penney, one of America’s largest department store chains. ‘Ooh, let’s get our hair cut’, suggested Liesel. I pointed out that I still had barely any hair since my last haircut. But, yes I had a trim and a nice chat with the Korean hairdresser. Liesel had a more significant cut, maybe two inches off.

In the evening, we went over to Jyoti’s and met up with Jim and Diana, visiting from Talkeetna. It was good to see them, and I even remembered to do this:

Yes, an actual photo of people we’ve spent time with!

After enjoying Jyoti’s Indian food, Liesel and I went off to watch another fooball game featuring Asa and Gideon. It was a one-sided match, their team, West Anchorage High School, leading 8-0 at halftime. I think the second eleven played in the second half. The good news is, the snow has all gone now from the stands. But there is still plenty of snow on the mountains in the distance.

And even though the clouds here look menacing, they caused us no problems. Except that the sky was 100% cloud covered all night. Plus, the Sun doesn’t set until 10.30. So while Alaska would normally be a fantastic, far north place from which to view the Aurora Borealis, the viewing conditions here and now were less than optimal.

So you can imagine how miffed I was after we returned home from the game, only to be bombarded, inundated and showered with pictures of the Northern Lights taken everywhere else. Especially from England. Even from Northenden.

I’m sorry to say I don’t know who took this picture of the Northenden Heron with its unusual backdrop, but if it was you, please let me know and I’ll add an acknowledgement.

Photos from Kent, West Sussex, Surrey are all just as spectacular. The Sun was very active, and responsible for the Aurora, but I wish it could have waited a few more days.

Yep, ‘Miffed’ is the word!

I tried not to mope over brunch the following morning, nobody needs to hear that much whingeing, not Liesel, Jyoti, Jim, Diana nor Una, no need to ruin their appetites. Ooh, I took another picture of people.

But my presence of mind didn’t last long. Liesel and I met up with Catherine and Hans at Point Woronzof Park, for a walk overlooking the Knik Arm, a narrow branch of the Cook Inlet, and, basically ‘behind’ the airport. We heard a few jets but otherwise, it was pleasantly quiet. We shared the path with many cyclists and a few runners. But did I take a picture of our friends? Nope.

Again, we noticed how many branches, boughs and limbs had fallen off trees this Winter, unable to bear the weight of so much snow and ice, that’s the theory.

As we were leaving the park, we noticed a few cars parked up ahead, and then we realised why. There were a couple of moose by the fence. Liesel wasn’t bothered, but I still think it’s exciting to see wildlife in the wild. And, apparently, so do some other locals.

Liesel has been telling me for a long time how good the TV series Ted Lasso is. I should watch it. Highly recommended. Except, it’s on the Apple+ TV service, which we haven’t subscribed to. Until now. We have three months free on the platform, thanks to Leslie buying a new Apple iPhone recently. So, Liesel set it up at home, and the first thing we did was to start watching Ted Lasso. I quite enjoyed it. Another episode? Oh, go on then. And so it went. All day. I think we watched 6 episodes that first day. I checked in the mirror, but my eyes hadn’t yet gone square.

It’s High School Graduation season, that’s the main reason we’re here at this particular time. Neha is graduating, and she and her family invited us to join them to celebrate at Sushi Ya, a popular Japanese restaurant. Limited vegetarian options, but what I had was very nice. And it was great to see Neha again after all these years.

It was good to meet her grandparents again too, who, I discovered, have been married for 57 years.

The Graduation ceremony took place on the first really warm and sunny Spring afternoon of the year, not at their school, but in the University of Alaska basketball stadium. Also known as the Alaska Airlines Center.

The place was heaving with graduates, their families and friends.

We had a few speeches, and the stars of the whole show came in while the orchestra played Elgar’s Pomp and Circumstance March number 1, on repeat.

I wanted to video Asa’s part in the ceremony, and I practiced with his girlfriend Alexa, whose surname falls earlier in the alphabet. But, too far away with my phone camera.

So out of 360 graduates, we were interested in just three, Asa, Alexa and Neha.

It was a bit of a scramble to leave the building and outside, everyone wanted photos, and bouquets and leis galore were given out.

The clouds opver the mountains looked menacing once more, but we were bathed in warm sunshine.

After dining at Bear Tooth, Liesel and I drove over to Jyoti’s where we went for a walk close to Sand Lake. Nice blue skies and fluffy clouds. No moose nor bears. In fact, not many birds either.

I thought maybe we’d see the sand hill cranes out on the mud flats, but again, no. We heard some, but couldn’t see them. Too well camouflaged, I reckon. A pair of binoculars would have helped, of course.

Back home, let’s watch one episode of Ted Lasso before bed. Oh alright then. Halfway through, we realised we must have missed something. We checked. Yep. For some reason, it had jumped to episode 9, we’d missed episodes 7 and 8. This is Apple+ TV. Why did it miss out two episodes? I hope their mobile telephones are a bit more robust than that…

And yes, it’s nearly midnight and still light, so even if the Sun were still active, and interacting with the Earth’s magnetic field, I don’t think we would have seen the Aurora from here. Oh well, good night.