Croeso i Gymru! Part 1

Earlier in the year, we spent a wonderful couple of months in New South Wales. Now, it was time to visit old south Wales, but only for a week.

Our long drive to a small village near Cardiff included a stretch on the M5. The gantry displayed a warning: Reports of Pedestrians, and the speed limit was reduced from 70 to 60mph. And I thought, how thoughtful: it’s so much kinder to hit pedestrians at 60mph than 70.

The reason for visiting Wales at this time was determined by the scheduling of Jessica Lee Morgan’s one and only live show this year. So imagine my disappointment when, halfway to our destinations, I received messages telling me the gig had been cancelled. Jessica’s bass player and partner Chris needed emergency surgery, and of course, people’s health has to come first. Still, I can’t help feeling a bit disappointed at the news, but we were determined to have a good time in Cymru.

The route took us along some very narrow roads with passing places. And in most places, the hedges on both sides were very tall, so obscuring what we feel were some spectacular views. A couple of people riding horses in front of us pretty much blocked the road, there was no way we could overtake them. They pulled over into a driveway by a gate to let us pass, for which we were grateful. A little further along the road though, we realised that actually, that was the gate to our b&b, so we returned once the horses had passed by us.

Unusually, the b&b had no milk in the fridge, so I set off to what we thought was the nearest supermarket. And, as if to rub salt in the wound, this small shop was opposite what would have been the venue for the gig the following night! What are the chances, eh?

Acapela Studio, Pentyrch near Cardiff

In the evening, we watched the Tour de France highlights on TV with, unusually, a screen even smaller than our own TV set at home.

In the morning, breakfast was accompanied by the rural sounds of, well, the smoke alarm beeping, because it needed a new battery. I disposed of a cluster of what we believe to be spiders’ nests. And I repaired the broken window blind in one of our rooms. Not having a gig to go to tonight, we could have explored further afield, but in the end, we stayed fairly close to our accommodation.

First stop: Dyffryn Gardens. Liesel was driving and I set the destination in Google Maps. As we approached, within the last mile or so, we commented on not so far having seen a sign to the gardens, but also, this is a very residential area, how can there possibly be a large National Trust property here? Well, there wasn’t. Instead, we laughed at the Welsh sense of humour, having a small road in a housing estate also named Dyffryn Gardens. I’m sure the locals are kept entertained by visitors making the same basic mistake with modern technology. I reprogrammed the thing, specifying Dyffryn Gardens National Trust. Well, it was a long but pleasant drive, and we saw more tractors than any other vehicles.

A473 Pontyclun

Apart from mopeds, that is. I suspect there was a moped rally somewhere. I wondered what fans of mopeds are called? Liesel told me: mopedophiles.

The gardens are well laid out, and we enjoyed our saunter around the various beds and displays. It was quite busy, but relaxing in the sunshine.

Heal-all, selfheal, woundwort

It was good to see lots of insects too. For lunch, I had a coronation chickpea sandwich, which was nice, but it was really hot inside the restaurant.

Not having any grandchildren in tow today, Liesel took it upon herself to enjoy the adventure playground to its fullest, bounding from log to log like a gazelle.

Liesel a-leaping

We stayed clear of the giant hogweed, but of course, really, it was just giant, Chilean rhubarb.

Very pretty flowerbeds

We enjoyed the wide variety of cacti and succulents in the very humid greenhouse. And as for wildlife, the only wild mammal I saw was a shrew, looking for a hole in the brick wall.

Some mysteries you can explain, some mysteries you can’t explain, and then there are mysteries that you didn’t know were mysteries until one day, you see something and begin to wonder:

Smot the Dog

Why is Spot the Dog called Smot in Wales? I really hope ‘spot’ isn’t a naughty word in Welsh.

St Fagans Museum of Welsh Life is a fascinating place, too. It’s a bit like the Weald and Downland Living Museum in Sussex, in that there is a collection of old, rebuilt houses and buildings from years and even centuries ago.

Pigsty, built in 1800, reconstructed 1977

We watched a couple of iron age men at work in the foundry. Well, working iron, anyway, I don’t really think they were that old. We could feel the heat from the fire, I can only imagine how hot it feels when you’re working right on top of it.

Ironworks
Iron age roundhouses

Slow walking gets to us all after a while and we have to sit down for an ice cream. So we did. We visited an old shop where the items weren’t really for sale, but still priced in old, pre-decimal money. I had a nice chat with the man behind the counter. We shared stories of how we used to go and buy cigarettes for our Dads and pick up a small treat for ourselves. Innocent days.

Old shop

When I was growing up in Guildford, we lived close to a set of prefabs, buildings prefabricated and built after the second world war, as a temporary measure to house many people. My parents’ friends Pearl and Eddie lived in a prefab and we visited a few times. I think they were finally demolished in the 1970s. The prefabs, that is, not Pearl and Eddie, I’ve no idea what happened to them, nor Eddie’s very loud motorbike. But I felt that Proustian rush today when I walked around an old prefab here at St Fagans.

Prefab

It’s been a long time, of course, but it certainly felt the same inside, as it was decorated in 1950s style, with plenty of old artefacts that I remember growing up with.

In the evening, we didn’t have a gig to go to (best wishes, Chris!) so the three of us sat around and looked at each other. A football game was on TV in the background: the Euros Final: England 1 Spain 2, but ‘we’ll always have 1966, eh?’

We were expecting lots of rain in Wales and on just one day, the weather met our expectations. We drove along more narrow lanes on our way to spend a day in Cardiff, starting off at the Castle. On the way into the city, we passed by some stunning Victorian houses, and wondered as we often do, whether the people that live here really appreciate how lucky they are to live in such a gorgeous place?

My first attempts at taking a picture of the castle keep were thwarted by big signs for the toilets and, from another angle, all the fast food outlets. We joined a guided tour which was interesting, and not only because the nearly 2000-year old Roman wall is still there. Well, some of it.

Inside the castle, each room was different, and the text written on the walls is in many different languages, English, Welsh, Latin, Hebrew, Greek. One previous occupant learned 27 languages because he wanted to read the Bible in as many different languages as possible.

Scorpion

There are many animals decorating the walls too, the occupants were great animal lovers, even going to the extent of banning hunting at some point.

The Arab Room
Lump of coal

This coal from The Lewis Merthyr Colllery was donated by Rhondda Heritage Park Museum to commemorate all those involved in the 19th century Welsh mining industry. Their labours transformed the fortunes of Cardiff and its Castle. It reminded me of Sarah and me taking Jenny on her very first march, aged 1 or 2, in London, in support of the south Welsh miners about to have their communities thatchered. Walking along Piccadilly chanting ‘Close the Ritz, not the pits’ is still a fond memory.

After the official tour, I braved the drizzle and walked up to and around the keep.

Carlisle Castle keep
Cardiff cityscape

On a clearer day, I suspect there are better views but I just enjoyed the challenge of walking up stairs and steps with an ever increasing gradient.

Wandering around Cardiff afterwards, we couldn’t help but notice the many graduates in their gowns. There were also people from many nations and tribes, it felt more like London than it did Manchester. Having read about it in a few places, we found our way to Uncommon Ground Coffee Roastery, where we enjoyed the best coffee imaginable. I even had a second cup here, something I don’t do very often.

Liesel and Leslie drove to the car park while I enjoyed a walk to the Millennium Centre, in the very light drizzle. It was good to see some fantastic signposts for the National Cycle Network, Route 8. This is the sort of thing I buy lottery tickets for.

NCN Route 8

It wasn’t really a surprise to see that the Millennium Centre was the venue for the day’s graduation ceremony. Lots of grads and families milling about inside and out. Despite the weather, many young women were dressed for an all-nighter, in their Summer frocks or party dresses.

The poem inscribed on the outside of the building is very difficult to photograph. You have to get the right angle, try to avoid people and obstacles, try not to stand in the middle of the road and then there’s the contrast of a dark building against the bright cloudy sky.

In these stones, horizons sing

Words by Gwyneth Lewis. It wasn’t, strictly speaking, a pilgrimage to this place, but it is somewhere I’ve wanted to visit since we saw it featured in the TV series Torchwood all those years ago.

I met up with Liesel and Mom in the car park at Mermaid Quay and we drove back to our place, in the rain. I like the dual language road signs, I’ll probably pick up some Welsh that way. But the word for ‘miles’ seems to vary between ‘filltir’ and ‘milltir’. It seems the inital consonant migrates depending on the preceding vowel. Liesel pointed out that, during the pandemic, when I was learning Māori pronunciation, maybe my time might have been better spent learning Welsh. She might have a point.

I would like to register a complaint. My Google Maps normally has a young, Aussie Sheila telling where to go and what to do. But sometimes, a harsh, bristling American woman jumps in with a fierce instruction. Why? I’ve got nothing against American women, obviously, I even married one. But what manner of bug is this, eh, Google?

Soil and oil

It’s always a joy to be invited out for coffee almost as soon as you make an appearance early in the morning. Or even late in the morning. And so it was that Liesel, Leslie and I walked across the road to meet up with Jyoti and her youngest, Gita, in the New Sagaya branch of Kaladi Bros Coffee. Breakfast for me was a bagel, though sadly not a jalapeño bagel, something I’d been looking forward to. Maybe they don’t bake them any more.

Liesel took her Mom for a medical procedure so Jyoti and I went for a walk alongside the lagoon.

The Lagoon with bonus mountains

Gita sent a mesage from the garden centre, our cue to drive over and join her. As it was such a beautiful day, Gita gave us fifteen minutes to arrive, otherwise she’d leave and go sunbathing…

Jyoti and Gita bought some houseplants, while my job was to find some hooks and a chain with which to hang the hanging basket that Aaron had given Mom for Mothers’ Day. Mothers’ Day in America doesn’t coincide with Mothering Sunday at home.

Jyoti also purchased a bag of Alaska Organic Soil and I had nothing better to do for a minute, so I read the ingredients.

Alaska Organic Soil

Yes, this soil contains bits of fish, thanks to bears who have enjoyed salmon from the rivers and dropped scraps in the woods.

Back at home, I made myself quite busy while Liesel and Mom were still out. I didn’t find a chain, but I managed to hang the basket on the balcony using a couple of hooks and some bendy wire.

Mom’s hanging basket

In the living room, there is a large jar of M&Ms. We’ve all dipped into it from time to time. Liesel thought she might be over-indulging and asked me to hide the jar. Well, I thought that seemed a bit harsh on her Mom, so, instead, I put a note inside the jar saying ‘No, Liesel’ illustrated with an angry cartoon face. I hoped this would be deterrent enough.

Sod’s law: it was Mom who came across the note first and, sadly, it made her lose her appetite for M&Ms. For a while, anyway.

Leslie’s surgery had gone well, and I was surprised to see that she had much less dressing on her eye than I did after my own cataract surgery. But, she has to apply eye drops for several days, something I don’t remember having to do.

In the evening, Una took me out for dinner, thank you very much, and we had a lovely chat. We chose Mexican and the portion size on this occasion was only slightly too big for me.

Leslie’s other eye was operated on the following day, again, fully successfully. While she was out, I went for a solo walk. Westmark Anchorage Hotel and Conference Center is nothing special from an architectural point of view but it was nice to see the flags of many nations flying outside. Pedantic old me couldn’t help but notice the Union Flag was flying upside down, popularly thought to be a sign of distress.

Westmark

I didn’t expect to bump into an old friend, but I did. Star the reindeer has been here for many years, but I don’t know whether or not he’s the original Star.

Star

Rubbish picture, because of the thick layer of dirty glass between us. Still, always good to see some wildlife, sort of.

In Leslie’s apartment block, we all attended the May Spring Fling Happy Hour. This was an opportunity to meet some of the other people who live here. Wine and nibbles were supplied. At first, Leslie wasn’t that keen, so Liesel went by herself to the community area on the top floor of the other block. I must have nodded off, but when I came to, Leslie said whe would attend after all, so we wandered over, through the courtyard.

And it was an even later night than usual when we all went to the airport to welcome Leslie’s Aunt Buzz, who is visiting for a week from her home in Albuquerque. As Liesel remarked, Buzz could be Leslie’s twin, so easy to recognise as she emerged from the secure area. And here was another chance to see some wildlife, sort of.

Musk ox

In fact, there are very many stuffed animals at Anchorage Airport, but I am too intimidated by American Airport rules and officials to risk taking too many pictures.

The other night, we couldn’t see any sand hill cranes. But they are here, and of all places, I was surprised to see them on the front page of the daily newspaper.

Sand hill cranes

That’s today’s Anchorage Daily News, the paper that also prints the challenging New York Times crossword every day. Point Woronzof, that’s where we enjoyed a stroll just a few days ago.

So, in an effort to see some actual, living animals, in the flesh, the now four of us went for a walk on the boardwalk at Potter Marsh. It was cloudy, but otherwise, another ideal day for a walk. The only disappointment here was seeing so much oil on the surface of the water.

Oil on the water

But this doesn’t seem to deter plenty of migratory birds from enjoying everything on offer here. We saw many swallows, for example. Most exciting, maybe, was seeing an eagle on his nest, a long way over there. I tried to get a photo by holding up my phone to the binoculars.

Bald eagle

I know it’s not a prize-winning photo, but he is a long way off and the binoculars’ lenses showed signs of having been outdoors in harsh conditions for a long time. This little chap was a lot closer.

Tree swallow

The green-winged teals were playing chase in the stream: whether the male caught up with and ‘became friends with’ the female, I don’t know.

On a white board near the entrance to the boardwalk, there was a list of birds spotted by other visitors during today. Our list of sightings is very modest in comparison.

What we missed

I’m particularly sorry that none of us saw a moose on the wing.

Leslie, Liesel, Buzz

In the afternoon, we started packing.

In the evening, we attended Alexa’s graduation party at her home. We were happy to meet Asa’s girlfriend’s parents and grandmother, who prepared loads of food for us and many other guests.

It was time for me to come home. The original plan was for Liesel to come as well, with Mom, but after the latter’s surgery, she’s not allowed to fly for a month. They’ll both join me at the end of June.

Liesel took me to the airport early. In fact, an hour earlier than necessary due to us misremembering the flight schedule. So I had plenty of time to eat breakfast, have a coffee, admire the dead, stuffed animals again, and read my book. The flight to rainy Seattle was uneventful. No dead animals at Seattle Airport, but there were a couple of buskers entertaining us. I found the vegetarian restaurant that Liesel had told me about, Floret, and I enjoyed my salad and chips. The flight to Reykjavic was uneventful. Well, apart from the fuselage rattling, sounding like industrial strength tinnitus. Plus, the overhead locker was very difficult to open. I think that plane might be due some repairs. I finished one book and started another. And when I tried to, I just could not get to sleep. The flight to Manchester was uneventful, and still, no sleep. All three flights were full so I could not spread ouit, nor have a good, proper stretch.

Jenny was kind enough to pick me up and take me home where I was pleased, after being in transit for about 21 hours, to be able to lie down again.

My luggage arrived just three long, nap-filled, worried days later.

While I was airborne, Liesel managed to get out for a nice hike with Jyoti, Una and Phil.

Jyoti, Liesel and Una

I’m sorry I missed Asa’s graduation party but by all accounts, it was very enjoyable.

Now, to sleep, to unpack and to start addressing the ‘To do’ list that was compiled while I was away.

Aurora furore

I never thought I’d spend a good half hour watching a woman making a basket, but that’s the way the dice roll these days.

As usual on this fine morning, Leslie went to the local school to play with the Kindergartners. She loves it but isn’t so keen on coming home with green paint on her fingers. ‘But I did wash my hands’, she insists.

Someone had a lovely birthday present.

Can you tell what it is?

You have to admire whoever drove this car to the car park while it was wrapped in clingfilm. For a start, how did they get in? Anyway, Happy Birthday, stranger!

An Anchorage mural

After working in the morning (Liesel) and writing (moi), we were now walking to Originale, a delightful Italian restaurant, in beautiful downtown Anchorage. Not only was the food great, they offered small and large portions. Small was big enough for Liesel and me. Best of all, Monica joined us for her lunch break.

Afterwards, we all went to the Museum where, by coincidence, Monica usually spends her working day.

Liesel and Monica

Monica returned to work, while Liesel and I walked around Anchorage Museum.

Trailing by Alia Shahab and Michel Gignac

Inspired by otherworldly light phenomena found in nature, such as bioluminescent plankton and the aurora borealis, Trailing is activated by motion.

Artists Alia Shahab and Michel Gignac created Trailing from thousands of fiberoptic cables affixed to a canopy of wooden hexagons – a shape chosen for its strength and spatial efficiency, as well as its abundance In nature.

As visitors move through the installation, activated strands glow an aqua-green, illuminating a path of motion. Trailing uses over a thousand tiny microcontrollers, which are triggered mechanically by physical movement of the fiberoptic cables. Like many bioluminescent animals that glow blue-green when agitated, the tendrils glow with a rich green light when someone brushes up against the cables. As the swaying slows, the cables fade to dark. For Shahab and Gignac, the flickering and fading light references the ephemeral effects of light found in our oceans and skies and encourages reflection and play between humans and the environment.

The accompanying exhibition of bioluminescent fish was interesting too. Just a couple of weeks ago, our William drew a picture of an angler fish, so it was nice to be able to send him a photo of a real one.

We saw a large container full of plastic baling straps, or strapex, as we used to call it. I remember walking around on that stuff at work, most of the magazines and brochures were bound together with that stuff. One use only before being chucked out. But one lovely lady decided to do something about it.

Hawai’i-based artist Gaye Chan develops projects that create opportunities for exchange outside of market and state control, such as free stores, guerilla gardens, and community meals. Carrying Capacity is a durational project Chan began in 2012, stemming from a chance encounter at a produce distribution company. Chan had gone with the intention of getting a case of overripe tomatoes for pasta sauce when she noticed heaps of baling straps in the loading area. As commodities move across the globe, baling straps like these are found binding box to box, paper to paper, and everything to pallets, which are tucked into containers for shipping. They are used once and then discarded into the waste stream. Unable to simply walk away, Chan gave herself the task of figuring out how to reuse the mountains of plastic straps. After watching countless YouTube videos on basket-making methods from around the world, she developed a basic weaving technique.

Eleven years and over a thousand baskets later, Chan continues to extend the life of this waste’ material through making and skill-sharing. She says, “I think I’m coming at this material not only to get it out of the waste stream, but to ask why we end up with all this junk in the first place. The obvious answer is the dysfunctional global capitalist system of moving goods around, and the residue that gets left in the wake of commerce. I use this material in a very tangible way, but each strap embodies the broader systems of violence and exploitation.”

Today, an estimated 90 percent of the world’s goods are transported by sea. In 2020, about 1.85 billion metric tons of cargo were shipped globally, up from some 0.1 billion metric tons just 40 years earlier in 1980. It follows that baling straps are found in abundance almost anywhere in the world, including remote Alaska villages as well as in Chan’s home in Hawaii. The Alaska iteration of Carrying Capacity partners Chan and her students over Zoom with basket makers and novices in the Anchorage area to learn, experiment, and create baskets together.

And it was Gaye Chan who engaged me for half hour, making a basket from the waste material.

Gaye Chan

As usual, we left the Museum having seen some good stuff, but a bit stiff from the slow walking. We said we’d visit again next week.

On the walk home, we happened to pass JC Penney, one of America’s largest department store chains. ‘Ooh, let’s get our hair cut’, suggested Liesel. I pointed out that I still had barely any hair since my last haircut. But, yes I had a trim and a nice chat with the Korean hairdresser. Liesel had a more significant cut, maybe two inches off.

In the evening, we went over to Jyoti’s and met up with Jim and Diana, visiting from Talkeetna. It was good to see them, and I even remembered to do this:

Diana, Jim, Jyoti, Liesel

Yes, an actual photo of people we’ve spent time with!

After enjoying Jyoti’s Indian food, Liesel and I went off to watch another fooball game featuring Asa and Gideon. It was a one-sided match, their team, West Anchorage High School, leading 8-0 at halftime. I think the second eleven played in the second half. The good news is, the snow has all gone now from the stands. But there is still plenty of snow on the mountains in the distance.

Mountains and clouds

And even though the clouds here look menacing, they caused us no problems. Except that the sky was 100% cloud covered all night. Plus, the Sun doesn’t set until 10.30. So while Alaska would normally be a fantastic, far north place from which to view the Aurora Borealis, the viewing conditions here and now were less than optimal.

So you can imagine how miffed I was after we returned home from the game, only to be bombarded, inundated and showered with pictures of the Northern Lights taken everywhere else. Especially from England. Even from Northenden.

Northenden Lights

I’m sorry to say I don’t know who took this picture of the Northenden Heron with its unusual backdrop, but if it was you, please let me know and I’ll add an acknowledgement.

Photos from Kent, West Sussex, Surrey are all just as spectacular. The Sun was very active, and responsible for the Aurora, but I wish it could have waited a few more days.

Wythenshawe Star Gazers

Yep, ‘Miffed’ is the word!

I tried not to mope over brunch the following morning, nobody needs to hear that much whingeing, not Liesel, Jyoti, Jim, Diana nor Una, no need to ruin their appetites. Ooh, I took another picture of people.

Liesel, Diana, Jim, Jyoti, Una

But my presence of mind didn’t last long. Liesel and I met up with Catherine and Hans at Point Woronzof Park, for a walk overlooking the Knik Arm, a narrow branch of the Cook Inlet, and, basically ‘behind’ the airport. We heard a few jets but otherwise, it was pleasantly quiet. We shared the path with many cyclists and a few runners. But did I take a picture of our friends? Nope.

Again, we noticed how many branches, boughs and limbs had fallen off trees this Winter, unable to bear the weight of so much snow and ice, that’s the theory.

Knik Arm

As we were leaving the park, we noticed a few cars parked up ahead, and then we realised why. There were a couple of moose by the fence. Liesel wasn’t bothered, but I still think it’s exciting to see wildlife in the wild. And, apparently, so do some other locals.

Moose

Liesel has been telling me for a long time how good the TV series Ted Lasso is. I should watch it. Highly recommended. Except, it’s on the Apple+ TV service, which we haven’t subscribed to. Until now. We have  three months free on the platform, thanks to Leslie buying a new Apple iPhone recently. So, Liesel set it up at home, and the first thing we did was to start watching Ted Lasso. I quite enjoyed it. Another episode? Oh, go on then. And so it went. All day. I think we watched 6 episodes that first day. I checked in the mirror, but my eyes hadn’t yet gone square.

It’s High School Graduation season, that’s the main reason we’re here at this particular time. Neha is graduating, and she and her family invited us to join them to celebrate at Sushi Ya, a popular Japanese restaurant. Limited vegetarian options, but what I had was very nice. And it was great to see Neha again after all these years.

It was good to meet her grandparents again too, who, I discovered, have been married for 57 years.

Neha and Dad Gregg

The Graduation ceremony took place on the first really warm and sunny Spring afternoon of the year, not at their school, but in the University of Alaska basketball stadium. Also known as the Alaska Airlines Center.

The place was heaving with graduates, their families and friends.

We had a few speeches, and the stars of the whole show came in while the orchestra played Elgar’s Pomp and Circumstance March number 1, on repeat.

Where’s Asa?

I wanted to video Asa’s part in the ceremony, and I practiced with his girlfriend Alexa, whose surname falls earlier in the alphabet. But, too far away with my phone camera.

Asa being congratulated

So out of 360 graduates, we were interested in just three, Asa, Alexa and Neha.

It was a bit of a scramble to leave the building and outside, everyone wanted photos, and bouquets and leis galore were given out.

Jodi, Asa, Aaron and Gideon

The clouds opver the mountains looked menacing once more, but we were bathed in warm sunshine.

After dining at Bear Tooth, Liesel and I drove over to Jyoti’s where we went for a walk close to Sand Lake. Nice blue skies and fluffy clouds. No moose nor bears. In fact, not many birds either.

Ideas brewing

I thought maybe we’d see the sand hill cranes out on the mud flats, but again, no. We heard some, but couldn’t see them. Too well camouflaged, I reckon. A pair of binoculars would have helped, of course.

Looking south over Turnagain

Back home, let’s watch one episode of Ted Lasso before bed. Oh alright then. Halfway through, we realised we must have missed something. We checked. Yep. For some reason, it had jumped to episode 9, we’d missed episodes 7 and 8. This is Apple+ TV. Why did it miss out two episodes? I hope their mobile telephones are a bit more robust than that…

And yes, it’s nearly midnight and still light, so even if the Sun were still active, and interacting with the Earth’s magnetic field, I don’t think we would have seen the Aurora from here. Oh well, good night.

Flowers and bones

In the evening, we returned to Asa’s High School for Seniors Night. The first thing we saw was a large poster depicting the all-American soccer hero Asa.

Poster boy

A few of the other players were similarly celebrated, but we are very proud of our nephew’s achievements on the field.

Gideon, Jodi, Asa and Aaron

After ceremoniously walking under the arch of balloons with his family, Asa and Gideon’s team played another game, another 1-0 victory.

The daughter of a friend of a friend was playing cello in a musical recital at a venue not too far away from home so Liesel and I decided to walk there. St Nicholas of Myra Byzantine Catholic Church is a very pretty building, the sight of which is only spoiled by the power lines in front.

St Nicholas of Myra

But wait, no, that wasn’t the venue for the concert. That was another building, a former church, now known as The Nave. We passed by a rock band on the way, but not as we normally understand a rock band.

Dance With Me by Tammy Holland

Now you know what to do with your scrap metal, horse shoes and that pile of boulders you’ve been meaning to get rid of.

There are two things always guaranteed to make me smile to myself. The name of a shop being a pun is one, and the other is a well-made, decent, fun mural. Named after the Mexican revolutionary, Pancho’s Villa is, of course, a Mexican restaurant here in Anchorage. On the wall, there is this lovely mural of Jean Jilwan, affectionately known as “John the Flower Guy”.

John the Flower Guy

This is what can happen when a community comes together to commemorate a much loved local personality.

We arrived at The Nave in good time, bumping into Jyoti’s friend Dave on the way in. Later, we were joined by Jyoti herself and by Dave’s wife Ellie. The Spring Chamber Music Concert featured young musicians from the Anchorage Youth Symphony and AYO’s Symphony School ensembles. An afternoon of chamber music, or what we would today just call background music. So lots of tunes by Handel, Bach, Schubert and some lesser known composers. All the participants performed very well, including the cello-player, Lavinia, Dave and Ellie’s daughter. I think I only nodded off once, and I did have to leave on one occasion for a coughing fit, trying hard not to do the English thing of saying ‘sorry’, ‘so sorry’ to each and every other member of the audience.

Curtain Call

Later in the afternoon, we met up with Jyoti again, this time way over at Una and Phil’s house, where we were joined by Monica and Gregg, and of course, this was the first time I’d seen them this trip.

Again, no photos of the main characters nor the extras. But it was a fun evening.

In medical news: I finally managed to extract the last bit of the splinter I’d acquired nearly two weeks ago, the lump of paint that burrowed deep inside my finger nail. I’m so relieved I didn’t have to resort to major surgery at a hospital. In other medical news, I didn’t come all this way to Anchorage just to be knocked for six by a niggly, tickley, sore throat, and a cough, with numerous other symptoms over the next few days such as fatigue, various aches and, for a few minutes, a sensation of dizziness and loss of sense of balance. Sadly, plans to go for walks were curtailed or cancelled. No, two Covid tests came back negative, so who knows what the nature of the ailment was?

On the other hand, I did complete the LA Times crossword, printed in the Sunday edition of the Anchorage Daily News.

Asa came by with his girlfriend Alexa: it was nice to meet her, and they both talked about their plans for next year after leaving school. Asa plans to spend time in Peru wrestling caymans or something, and Alexa is off to Colorado for a long, hard and intense nursing course.

After a short walk, we had dinner at Leslie’s with the family: Aaron, Jodi, Asa and Gideon, and again, I took no photos.

Mom had a dental appointment. Liesel dropped her off then went for a quick walk with Jyoti. I was still in bed, feeling a bit sorry for myself. Liesel knows that I would definitely have taken pictures in this neighbourhood if I were here, so she did the honours. For some reason, many of the residents have decorated their homes with skeletons. This may be Halloween paraphernalia that hasn’t been taken in yet, but it’s certainly an unusual way to bring the community together.

Slam Dunk

The next day, when I’d dragged my own bag of bones out of bed, we went for a walk and I was delighted to see these colourful flowers outside a neighbour’s house.

Tulips

Then Liesel popped the bubble, ruined the illusion, ruined everything quite frankly, by telling me that they were fake, plastic flowers. Well, plastic, schmastic, as Americans say, they’re still very colourful!

There is plenty of evidence of earthquake damage around the city, but I’m not sure this crack in the pavement counts.

Cracked pavement
Sinking feeling

On the other hand, when I first arrived, this blue house was as high as its neighbour, but it seems to be sinking into the ground very slowly. Did you also notice the snowflakes? Yes, I couldn’t believe it either when I looked out and saw that it was snowing. Liesel had assured me that it wouldn’t snow in Anchorage during the merry, merry month of May. Huh.

Any more bad news? No, I think that’ll do for now. My coughing fits are fewer and less violent than a few days ago, so there’s some good news.

Snow and ice

When my neighbour passenger woke up (yes, grrr, he managed several hours sleep), he opened the window shutter and the first thing I saw was a range of snow-capped mountains. Liesel looked sheepish when I reminded her that she’d said that all the snow had gone, melted, thawed, disappeared.

The view from the airport

We collected our bags and then Jyoti collected us. It was about 6am, light and cold. A mere 2° here in Anchorage, but I thought it was quite refreshing after being cooped up in a packed jetliner for that sleepless five hours.

Thanks, Jyoti, for driving us home, which is, for us, Leslie’s new apartment that she moved into just on five months ago. We soon got into the swing of things, having a coffee from Kaladi Bros just over the road plus a pastry. The view from our room, of course, features snow. Not pristine, freshly fallen snow, but dirty sludge that’s been festering outside since last October.

The view from our place

Despite my best intentions, I couldn’t stay awake for the rest of the day, and indeed, we all had a nap. Followed by a refreshing shower.

I proudly wore a borrowed Harvard sweatshirt for our quick perambulation down to Westchester Lagoon. I didn’t know how to respond when a stranger just said ‘Harvard!’ as he passed by us. I hope I didn’t miss out on something special by not knowing the secret response/password.

There are still patches of ice on the lake, icebergs even.

Ice on the lake

In the depths of Winter, the ice is so solid, it is a great venue for ice skaters. They even use a Zamboni every few days to provide a clean, smooth surface. Would I skate here? I like the idea, but from experience, the only way I know to stop in a timely manner is to head for the wall of the ice rink. There is no such barrier here, so I guess I’d just keep going until I hit the mountains.

Mountains

But it’s not all cold stuff here. We saw some signs of Spring.

Crocuses

Fire Island is a great, rustic bakehouse. We paid our first visit here, bought some bread and enjoyed coffee and pastries.

Back at home, I completed the crossword in the local paper, Anchorage Daily News, messed up the Soduko, but I did complete the New York Times crossword for the first time.

This will take some getting used to, I think: the Sun is setting at 10pm right now, that’s three hours later than it did in Honolulu. Plus, the twilight period is much longer. When it’s so light, so late, it’s quite hard getting to sleep.

Our nephews Asa and Gideon played in a football game at West Anchorage High School.

Game of soccer

The backdrop of mountains occasionally detracted from the action on the pitch, but what a great setting. Another distraction was the markings for an American Football  pitch, which were much more prominent than the yellow lines for soccer. Spoiler alert: I’m not a big football (soccer) fan, but even though West Anchorage (our team) won the match 1-0, given the run of play, I think they should have won by a much higher score.

Unfortunately, the bleachers are still mostly covered in snow, but we did find a dry spot to sit. For the first time, I wore long trousers and I’m glad I did, because after sitting outside in a slight breeze, even I was beinning to feel a little chilly.

Yay, we went shopping at Carrs. Liesel’s shopping list was as long as your arm, and in the end, the trolley (cart) was groaning under the weight of the purchases.

In the evening, Liesel and I visited Jyoti’s son Suvan and his wife Kayla at their place. Six years ago, we just missed attending their wedding because the bureaucracy pertaining to moving house in the UK is a ridiculously long-winded business. It was good to see them, not to mention Suvan’s musical instruments and other technology with which he is composing music and sound effects for a video game. I look forward to playing some on my radio show one day (hint, hint). Who else was there? Jyoti and other pets, Shanti, 16 years old and Basil, much younger. And a cat.

Is there a photograph of Suvan and Kayla? Of course not, that would require me to remember to take pictures of people, not just of things.

When Liesel and Leslie went out to run errands, my mission, which I chose to accept, was to go to Fire Island to buy a baguette. Liesel wasn’t surprised that I had a coffee there, but she was surprised that I didn’t partake of a delicious sweet treat too. Well, I had only just had breakfast. On the way, I did encounter some wildlife.

Mick with a bear behind

Yep, the old captions are the best.

And more small signs of Spring.

The year’s first daffodils

It had rained overnight, and it was still trying to precipitate now, very half-heartedly. I didn’t want the newly purchased baguette to get too soggy, so I went straight home. Otherwise, I might have enjoyed a longer walk.

The other thing that’s different here in AK is the atmosphere. It’s so dry compared with Hawaii’s humidity, Liesel and I are both experiencing nosebleeds and chapped lips. I’m sure we’ll adapt in the fullness of time, but it’s a bit of a challenge right now.

Aloha, aloha

Sitting in the departure lounge in any airport wears a bit thin after a while, so we find excuses to go for short excursions. One big head followed our gaze as we walked by.

Giant Head

The Giant Head is a large kinetic installation that allows viewers to experience mysterious emotions through its indecipherable facial expressions which seem to penetrate the essence of the viewer. A two-meter-high robot, the Giant Head was also introduced at the London Super Futures exhibition, blurring the line between retail and art space. The Giant Head is a year-long project conducted by Gentle Monster’s Robotics Lab which attempts to question viewers about the future of the human-robot relationship.

I looked at the electronics and the cables behind the face, where the brain ought to be, and it was suitably impressive/complicated.

I also studied the site of the splinter I received last night. From one of the chopsticks in Saké of all things. There was no lasting mark. Unlike the splinter I got a few days ago at the Pantry. As I picked up my bag, my finger lightly scraped the wall behind and a shard of paint found its way down a finger nail. It was quite painful at the time and when I tried to pull it out, the fleck of paint snapped, leaving a black lump well below the nail. I later asked a pharmacist if he had any cream or something that would help extract it, and he said no, it was so deep behind the nail that it would probably have to be surgically removed. It doesn’t bother me, I’m just waiting for the nail to grow so I can restore it to its usual pristine, beautiful and well-manicured state. Yes, leave it for now and watch out in case it becomes infected.

We boarded our plane, a Boeing 787, and found ourselves seated miles part, Leslie near the front, Liesel and me near the back.

Bye bye NSW beaches

We’re going to miss NSW and its lovely people but it’s time to move on. Jetstar had plenty of delightful destinations to choose from, and we decided to fly to Honolulu. It’s over halfway to Alaska, Leslie’s home town.

The flight was nowhere near full, so Liesel and I moved forward. I managed to grab three seats, but despite being able to lie down, I managed only one hour of sleep during the 9-hour flight. I did read a lot though, and listened to some podcasts, so the time passed quickly.

The flight path took us over Fiji and over the point where the equator and the International Dateline cross. There’s a fact for the nerds. And another: because we crossed the International Dateline, this day was 44 hours long.

Honolulu Airport: Immigation and customs posed no problems, despite having several bottles of wine, the only item we needed to declare. It was raining. Yes, we’ve come to Hawaii and it’s raining. But actually, when we disembarked, it just felt really hot and humid, despite being about 5.30am.

We hired a car. Oh good, it’s a convertible. Then we looked more closely. There was no way all our luggage was going to fit in that tiny boot. So we swapped it for a different ‘compact’ which is still twice as big as our little Mazda at home.

We soon noticed that, compared with the Northern Beaches, everything here is bigger. The cars are bigger, the roads are wider, the people are larger, the surfboards are bigger, but that’s because the waves are bigger. And of course, eating out in the USA, the meals are bigger, and when you settle the bill, the tips are bigger.

After finding our accommodation, we had a nap and ate the scones that we’d imported all the way from Mrs Jones the Baker.

Behind our house is the fabulous sight of Diamond Head. But we can’t see it from our place because there are no windows on that side of the building!

The Airbnb with Diamond Head behind

We went for a walk towards Waikiki, enjoying the tropical plants.

Bromeliad: Neoregelia

No, we didn’t visit the zoo, but we walked past the entrance and took a quick hike through Queen Kapi’olani Garden. So far, so quiet. Then we hit the main road by the beach. The road was closed while people were setting up their stalls for the annual Waikiki Spam Jam, a cultural tradition in Hawaii, rated as one of the best food festivals on the islands. A traffic-free road was much more pleasant to walk along, but there were so many people!

Kauai is famous for its feral chickens, not so much Oahu. But today, we saw chickens, hens and roosters and their chicks all over the place. And yes, some of them did cross the road but we don’t know why.

Wild chickens

The beach was very popular too. We know from previous visits how calm the sea is here compared with other places around the islands, as there’s a breakwater a short distance away from the shore.

Waikiki Beach

It still felt humid and we even felt about six or seven drops of rain: a very half-hearted attempt at soaking us. Some lei-festooned statues remind us of the sometimes sad history of Hawaii.

Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalanianaʻole

From Wikipedia: Jonah Kūhiō Kalanianaʻole (March 26, 1871 – January 7, 1922) was a prince of the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi until it was overthrown by a coalition of American and European businessmen in 1893. He later went on to become a representative in the Territory of Hawaii as delegate to the United States Congress, and as such is the only royal-born member of Congress.

A busker was playing a Hawaiian lap steel guitar, but I think he might have been a beginner. The tune he was playing sounded familiar, but he was playing it so slowly, one plodding note after another, I couldn’t bring its name to mind. Still, good on him for having a go. Waikiki Christmas Store was open, but no, we didn’t visit. Nor did we visit Penny’s Malasadas. We left that sweet treat for another time.

After enough fresh air, we found ourselves in the shopping plaza where we didn’t do much shopping (none) but we did have a coffee and a toasted caprese sandwich which really hit the spot, as they say. Thank you, Kai Coffee.

The tide was now in, which means that the beach was only about six feet wide, just about wide enough for someone to lie down between the road and the sea.

Waikiki Beach again

While I had the phone camera out, I was watching someone gracefully navigating the many swimmers and bathers on her paddle board. Sorry to admit this, but yes, I was waiting for her to fall in. But she was too good.

Some trees had blue bands around their trunks at about head height. I had to investigate. “Nesting White Terns, Trim With Caution”. Brilliant.

In the evening, we met our old friends Trudi and John for dinner at Panya Bistro on Ala Moana Boulevard. Ala Moana, said more like the French ‘à la’, but our Google (or was it Apple?) Maps announcer pronounced it ‘Ayla Moana’, which elicited a superior chuckle from us polyglots. I can’t believe it’s nine years since I last met Trudi and John. A lot of catching up to do, and somehow, we spent over four hours in the restaurant. John is about the same age as me, and he still swims out to sea a mile or more every morning and surfs back to shore.

I’d like to show you a picture of us all together, but, you know… Here is an awful picture showing the leis that Trudi and John kindly welcomed us to the island with.

Selfie of the day with leis

My He’e Berry & Tī Leaf Twist Lei was delightfully aromatic. He’e is so-called as that is the Hawaiian word for octopus, and it does resemble an octopus tentacle, but I am grateful it doesn’t smell of octopus.

Leslie’s and Liesel’s Tuberose leis were equally aromatic, definitely a smell that if we encounter it again will bring us right back to Hawaii.

It was a late night for us and we slept well.

Moké’s Bread and Breakfast provided a fabulous, late and very large breakfast. Embarrassingly, I knocked over my glass of water, and the server cleared up my mess very quickly. I felt sorry for him, though, having to pick up ice cubes from the floor, by hand.

According to the thermometer in the car, it was 83°F today, that’s over 28°C. In order to see more of the island, we drove rather than walked. Yes, that’s why we didn’t step out today, no other reason such as fatigue and lethargy at all, honest.

We’ve had a few trips to Kailua over the years, in fact, that’s where we went to celebrate my 60th birthday. So we thought we’d pay a quick visit today, maybe spend some time on the beach.

Other very attractive beaches were glimpsed from the car as we sped by at 35, 45mph. Yes, in places, the speed limits are quite low, which is a good thing.

Maunalua Bay Beach Park
Koko Head

When we gained some altitude, we could look down at the sea, and it really was a patchwork, so many different shades of blue and green and everything in between. And very clear sometimes too. The sea did look inviting, well, maybe apart from where the waves were bigger than houses.

It was sad to see such a large homeless encampment near Waimanalo Beach. One homeless person is too many, of course, but seeing so many here is this gorgeous, or any, location, was quite distressing. Given the number of Kanaka Maoli Hawaiian flags we saw, I supect most of these homeless folk are native Hawaiians, priced out of the city by rich white Americans.

Kailua is very popular. We drove in, we drove out, there was obviously nowhere to park up, so we didn’t. Instead, we returned to Honolulu via the main highway and stopped off at The Valley of the Temples. This is more than just an oversized cemetery. It’s a beautifully laid out memorial park and we spent some time here, absorbing the peace.

We rang the peace bell for our lost loved ones, in particular for Liesel’s Dad, and for my Mum and Dad and Sarah. And later in the temple, we lit incense sticks for them too.

Liesel and Leslie ringing the Bon Sho (Sacred Bell)

This bell is a replica of one in Japan that is 900 years old and probably made in India.

Before entering the Temple, we had to take our shoes off. I had a quick look at what was on offer, and decided that I’d prefer to leave with the sandals I’d arrived in.

Amida Buddha sitting on a gold lotus leaf, inside the Temple

Amongst the wildlife here, we saw koi; black swans; spotted doves, some more keen on mating than others; turtles and, er, several domestic cats, which we thought a bit odd.

Black swan and koi

The Temple is a replica of the 11th-century Phoenix Hall of the Byodo-In Buddhist temple complex in Uji, Japan. It is very photogenic, especially with the mountains, shrouded in mist, in the background.

The Temple

For a moment, we coud have actually been in Japan, where we’d enjoyed visiting many temples.

Dinner this evening was with Leslie and Liesel’s friend Joye, whom they’ve known for decades. They talked about other family members, some familar to me, many not. It was lovely to meet her for the first time. And I remembered to take a picture, hooray.

Liesel, Joye and Leslie

What a salubrious background. Good night!

Liesel dropped Leslie and me off to watch a hula show, while she went gallivanting off with Trudi, spending just a short time shopping.

Banyan tree outside the Zoo

We had the pleasure of seeing a couple of (to me) exotic birds. The egret was practising silly walks and the red-crested cardinal flew in, landed, sang a few notes, and flew away again.

We never go and see a show that starts at 9.30 in the morning, yet here I am, and not with my wife but with my mother-in-law. As that great philosopher Phil Collins once said, ‘Funny ol’ world, innit?’

The Kilohana Hula Show show was very enjoyable: the commentator / announcer provided a very entertaining and informative narration. Overall, the dances and songs told stories about events in Hawaii’s history, but mostly, I just enjoyed listening to the music and watching the intricate choreography. Sadly, the amphitheatre was only about a quarter full, but that didn’t seem to affect the performance.

Hula dancers
Aloha

Towards the end of the show, we members of the audience were invited down to learn the moves. I would have had a go, but, well, I have two left feet when it comes to dancing. Plus, I had to look after Leslie. Those are my excuses, and I’m sure I can invent plenty more, if necessary.

The public

But the folks who did join in all had a good time, and most of them were smiling at the end.

Liesel came by and collected us after show, and we retired to our Airbnb. Leslie had a rest while Liesel and I went out for breakfast, before Liesel worked on the PC for a couple of hours. During which time, I too took a well-deserved (?!) rest.

East-West Center Japanese Garden is small and we passed a good half hour here, slowly walking around.

Bamboo roots
The Garden Stream

The Garden Stream represents a river as it flows from the mountains to the lowland cities and sea. The stream’s course reflects the Japenese character for “heart”, symbolizing the greetings sent from the people of Japan to the people of Hawaii.

Sadly, the old teahouse wasn’t open for refreshments. And I was surprised to see a young lady enjoying a book in the shelter of the Thai Pavilion.

Thai Pavilion

Just along the road, all within the campus of the University of Hawaii, is the stunning Korean Studies Building. It’s architects and most of the builders were Korean, and it is a very attractive building.

Korean Studies Building

As well as being functional, it is decorated with Korean tiles, and the level of details takes the breath away.

The tiles

The University of Hawaii at Manoa is a tobacco-free campus: no smoking, no vaping, no chewing tobacco. I don’t know what the sanctions are for anyone who breaks the rule, but what a great innovation. While Liesel and Leslie sat on a bench in the shade outside, I went into Hamilton Library, where it was much cooler. And what a big library, there must have been over a hundred students working here.

Look at the size of it

And that’s just one room: I didn’t go upstairs at all. The staff give their all, working their fingers and more to the bone:

Librarians

And I came across another great idea. They’ve put the waste bins outside the restrooms so, when you’ve washed your hands, you can use the paper towel to open the door and dispose of the towel outside. No need to worry about touching a virus-laden door handle with your clean fingers. It wouldn’t work with those hot air hand dryers, I know, but since Covid, I’ve stuffed many a used paper towel in my pocket having opened a bathroom door without touching it, especially in a restaurant, when I’m about to eat.

There is a long display telling us about The Himeyuri Schools and the Battle of Okinawa, something of which I was completely unaware.

The first Himeyuri panel

Back in Waikiki, we returned to Ala Moana Center Shopping Mall. What a big Mall. We visited a few shops, American icons such as Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s, plus Maui Divers Jewelry. Remember I said everything’s bigger in America? Well, look at the size of these trousers!

Big Levi 501s

Those big jeans are on a par with the 230 Big Things in Australia that we were talking about just a few days ago.

Another surprise was seeing one of Yayoi Kusama’s bronze polka dotted pumpkins out in the wild.

A Kusama Pumpkin

We were drawn into Two Palms looking for a dress for Leslie and, somehow, we ended up buying a shirt for me too. Plus some other odds and sods.

It was much quicker to pack on this occasion since we hadn’t fully unpacked for such a short visit.

I don’t do Trip Advisor, mainly because many of the reviews are fake or paid for. But if I were to write a review about one place, it might verge on the extremely negative.

Where to go for dinner tonight, our last one in Honolulu? We found a venue that looked appealing, drove up a ramp and realised that only valet parking was available. For the price of $5 plus gratuity. So we handed over the keys and walked down to the restaurant. ‘Sit down where you like and we’ll bring over the menu.’ We sat down and Liesel went to the bathroom. A server approached Leslie and me to apologise. ‘The kitchen is closed because we’re expecting a large party later of 250.’ Hmmm, I wish you’d told us before we had our car valet-parked at great expense. Oh, I’m ever so sorry. She signed the ticket, there was no way we were going to pay for a service we didn’t want in the first place, especially since now, we weren’t going to eat here. All they needed to do was have a sign at the bottom of the drive warning potential customers that the kitchen was closed. Annoying, yes. And very un-American, their customer service  is usually very good. So, onto a different place. Where we had American sized sandwiches, full of salad and sprouts and, oh well, nasty American cheese. It was alright, though. So thank you, Liliha Bakery.

We returned the car to the airport, checked in and waited a couple of hours for our next flight. Honolulu Airport is a bit old and maybe could do with a spot of refurbishment, but there is one feature I like. Hidden in plain sight, as the website says, are the Cultural Gardens. Hawaiian, Japanese and Chinese Gardens are underneath the departure gates and surprisingly peaceful, despite the roar of jet engines not too far away. It was dark when I visited, and there were very few other people wandering around.

Japanese Garden

Again, because the bookings had been made at different times, Leslie was sitting a few rows away from Liesel and myself. Another smooth take-off and pretty much on time. The flight was full, so I couldn’t lie down this time, hence I had zero sleep for the whole of the overnight flight. I did finish two books today, though, so that’s a result. I can recommend Joanne Harris’s Blueeyedboy. And I finally reached the end of Black Holes: The Key to Understanding the Universe by Brian Cox and Jeff Forshaw, which I’ve been reading in fits and starts for several months. Fascinating but some of the concepts are hard to follow. Time for something lighter: back to Jeeves and Wooster.

Bye-bye Brookie

And lo, as our visit to Australia draws to a close, we are preparing to pack and to leave. We arrived with a case full of Hula Hoops and chocolate for Helen and friends, and we’re leaving with several bottles of wine. No less bulky, but much, much heavier.

In Manly, they were setting up for the ANZAC Day Dawn Service. We’d missed out on the event in Darwin five years ago, but wouldn’t it be great to show our support here, now? Yes, it would. But then we found out the truth.

Anzac Day Service

4.25am? Sorry, I know getting up that early, just once, is nothing like the sacrifice thousands of people have made over so many years of conflict, but it was never going to happen.

Today, though, for the last time, the three of us had Manly massages. Helena was slightly more gentle today, as she didn’t want us to be in pain on our upcoming flight!

The library in Manly was very comfortable, and after writing for a while, I managed not to fall asleep. I had a quick coffee then set off for Warringah Mall. Meanwhile, Liesel had renewed the hire car for a couple more days. I think she likes the Toyota Corolla hybrid a wee bit too much. The Mazda at home better be looking over its shoulder…

The library in the Mall was very comfortable, and after writing for a while, I migrated to an armchair where I did nod off for a short while.

We received news from one of our secret sources. A client of Helen’s had said that four pelicans had been seen at North Harbour Reserve, so with a quick handbrake turn, we headed off in that direction. It’s a nice little reserve, a little park off the road that we’d passed by many times, but this was our first actual visit.

There were plenty of folks taking their dogs or their babies for a walk, but disappointingly, the pelicans were not to be seen.

Spot the pelicans?

In general, the weather here has been superb, so it’s hard to keep in mind that actually, it’s Autumn. But when you have to shuffle through this many fallen leaves, you remember what time of year it is.

Fallen leaves

The first thing I heard on ANZAC day wasn’t the bagpipes and the drums from a procession somewhere close by, it was Liesel asking whether I could hear the bagpipes and drums. Well, no, I couldn’t and please, let me get back to sleep.

Packing is a frustrating occupation, there are so many things that can’t be put in a case until the last minute. So we gave up for a bit, and went for a walk instead. Narrabeen Lagoon seemed like a good place to return to. Obviously, we didn’t completely circumnavigate the lagoon today, but along with a million other walkers, cyclists, joggers and more serious runners, scooterers and skaters, we enjoyed a short tramp along the path.

I was surprised there weren’t more boats out on the water: we saw a few kayaks and later on, one very loud motor boat which ruined the ambiance for everyone else. The black swans were well away from shore, and the closest bird we saw with wet feet was a lapwing. There were some diving birds too.

Angel trumpets

You wouldn’t believe me if I said that we saw a moose here today. So here is the proof:

Moose

Well, a bent coat-hanger in the shape of a moose isn’t really a moose, I suppose, but it made us laugh. Way up on the hill on this ANZAC day, it was good to see a house proudly displaying a huge Aussie flag.

House and flag

Many people were having picnics and some were very well-equipped for the occasion. Some had placed table cloths on the picnic tables. A few were sitting on large blankets on the ground. And a couple had even erected tents for the occasion, which we thought was a bit OTT.

Picnic tent

Back at home, Helen was preparing food, Liesel continued preparing food, I stayed out of the way. Jacqui arrived with cheese and crackers, and shortly afterwards, Brent joined us fresh from the gym.

Creeping fig

Even though the creeping figs might be edible, they’re quite difficult to reach from Helen’s back yard. I suspect that, like the quinces we had in Chessington, this fruit will go un-eaten.

Cheese and crackers and a glass or six of wine, that’s a great way to pass the afternoon. And when that was all taken care of, a barbecue. The carnivores had sausages and ribs, while Helen and I had veggie burgers and we all shared a variety of delicious salads. Jacqui also brought caramel hedgehog slice as a dessert which, despite its name, was suitable for vegetarians.

I think we all enjoyed our time outside. Jacqui brought everything, including a game, Cornhole, which involved throwing beanbags into a hole from a distance of about 6 metres. Modesty prevents me from saying who was the champion today.

Mick and Helen, the tossers

Several hours were passed imbibing wine, chatting and laughing. And I kept the phone in my pocket, so no pictures of us with Jacqui. Mick, you’re rubbish.

After Helen, Brent and Jacqui left, the rest of us went straight to bed and straight to sleep. Until I woke up, feeling refreshed and ready to go, but it was only 1am. It took a while to drift off again.

Our penultimate morning in Brookvale started with an unusual breakfast, as we have been using up the various cereals etc. Some more  packing also took place.

After a break of several days, Liesel received a couple of work projects. We had a date in Manly, so we set off for the library there. There were many people working on laptops, so thank goodness there was a secret upper floor with additional workspace.

On the way to the library, I chortled at this juxtaposition of the word ‘chickens’.

Chickens

One on the back of a mother-in-law and one on the back of a van. And as I walked by the driver, he asked why I was taking pictures of his van.

Maggie was a member of our baby-sitting circle in Chessington some decades ago, before moving to Australia. She now lives in the western suburbs of Sydney and today, she came all the way back to Manly, the town of her youth, to see us. I met her from the ferry and we had a coffee at Three Beans.

After joining Liesel and Leslie by Manly Beach, we went for a short walk before lunching back at Alice Dumpling: this was the place where we’d first met Brent, seven weeks ago, but it feels much more recent.

Sorry again, there is no photo of Maggie with or without us. Slapped wrist, Mick, you incompetent so-and-so.

As I accompanied Maggie back to the wharf, Liesel and Leslie indulged in a gelato. I succumbed to temptation, too, then stayed in Manly while they went off to Warringah Mall Library. After work, Helen joined me for a quick cuppa and a lovely chat.

Back at home, more serious packing took place, to the point that we were now weighing the packed bags. In the process, I discovered that I, too, have put on a few pounds weight since I’ve been here in Aus. Secretly, I’m hoping the scales are lying. It must be all the sunshine, can’t be anything to do with drinking more wine than I’ve ever drunk in my life before, or eating out far more often than we do at home.

While packing, our background music was provided by the band down the road at Brookvale Oval rehearsing the national anthems for the rugby game tonight. Liesel and I both tried to buy tickets for this game but failed for ridiculous reasons that come down to bad website design.

But why were they playing the UK national anthem as well as the Australian one? It’s a local game between Manly Sea Eagles and Parramatta Eels.

We picked Helen up and drove back to Manly. Saké is Helen’s and Brent’s favourite restaurant so we had another very nice, very tasty meal here tonight.

Sorry, but we realised later, that we didn’t get photos of the family, Helen, Brent, Mick, Liesel and Leslie, all together. Crikey Mick, you are such a loser.

Manly Wharf at night

But of course, I did take a few pictures of Manly in the dark.

Manly Beach in the moonlight

When we returned home, of course we had to watch the rugby match on TV. We could hear the crowd from the Oval just down the road, and we realised that if we looked up at the TV as soon as we heard the roar of the crowd, we’d see the try being scored that they were cheering for. Hooray for 2- or 3-second delays in the broadcast!

The Eels were leading at half-time but the Sea Eagles won the match 32-18 after a tremendous second half comeback.

And so, one final breakfast with Helen at Big Cliff’s, no that’s not right… We returned to Little Collins for breakfast with Helen. I ate well last night at Saké so I had a relatively small meal. The Sun was out, waiting to wish us goodbye. All chores today, returning the car, and the final phase of packing, weighing, re-packing, a wonderful game of 3D Tetris.

Helen was kind enough to drive us to the airport and she is now spending the afternoon in the city with some friends. We checked in and passed through security with ease.

Somehow, this faffing about at an airport always seems so anticlimactic after such a wonderful, exciting, busy holiday. And welcoming a new young man into the family is a bonus, of course. Congratulations again, Helen and Brent, and thank you very much for letting us crash in what will very soon be your shared pad.

So here we are sitting in an airport departure lounge waiting to board our flight. But where are we going? What is our next destination? Tune in soon for the next exciting episode. I’m not sure what our internet connection will be like for the next few days, so appy polly loggies if there’s a delay. I have no idea why that phrase from A Clockwork Orange just popped into my head. 

Koalafications

West Head has been on our list of places to visit for a while. And we found the drive there very interesting, even if the road was long and winding. Again, I was amused by seeing another Blackbutts Road, fnarr, fnarr, but of more interest was seeing some bridges across the road, hung from tree to tree, so that animals can safely cross the highway. Sadly, we still saw a couple of corpses by the side of the road.

As I said to Liesel, I’m always fascinated to see two bodies of water come into contact with each other. Sometimes, there’s a marked difference in colour, one more green than the other, for instance. Here, though, there was a very distinctive line between, I think, the Hawkesbury River and Pittwater.

Line in the water

From West Head, you can see Palm Beach in all its glory. We’d not walked up the path to the lighthouse on this visit, so it was great, from our vantage point on the other side of the water to see Barrenjoey Head standing proud. It was once an island, joined to the mainland via what we now know as Palm Beach, after the last ice age.

Barrenjoey Head and Palm Beach

There are a number of walking tracks off the road leading to West Head, but we discounted some because they were described as ‘hard’. Some of the others were closed for reasons of safety: ‘Unstable edge’. Another one we couldn’t do because we couldn’t see where to park the car safely. Yet another would have meant negotiating a large puddle that straddled the path, and who knows how deep it was? And what monsters lurked beneath the surface? But we did have a nice wander up and down a couple of challenging paths.

As we ate our picnic lunch overlooking Pittwater and Palm Beach, we enjoyed watching the three young ladies next to us as they took out their equipment and began painting the scene. I don’t think I’ve ever seen paint in so many shades of blue, but by the time we left, they had pretty much captured the sea and the sky perfectly. Me, I just point the phone and click, job done. I often wish I had the patience, and the talent, to paint scenes like this, especially when photographs don’t really show the scale of a landscape.

No need to say that, yes, of course, we encountered a couple of massive spiders on their huge webs. A brush turkey came sniffing around for food, unsuccessfully. Well, shh, Leslie threw a small crust of bread, eliciting a roar of disapproval from Liesel and me.

The Red Hands Track was a challenge, but worthwhile, once we found the Aboriginal hand prints on the rock. These weren’t as easy to spot as those we saw a few days ago. The sign was almost apologetic, saying that although Australia had been inhabited by people for tens of thousands of years, these prints were only 2000 years old.

Hand print

Always on the lookout for exciting wildlife, we jumped for joy when we crossed paths with this specimen.

Centipede

We drove away via a different route, though the road was just as winding, passing by Akuna Bay. We expected a nice, peaceful bay, with maybe young children fishing, the water gently lapping on a beach. Instead, the bay was full of boats, Yachts of all shapes and sizes, scores of them, possibly hundreds. How they navigate in and out is a mystery to me.

Akuna bay Marina

I think Liesel and I were both slightly envious of the many cyclists enjoying the ups and downs of these virtually empty, quiet roads.

We stopped for coffee in Glenrose. Or was it Belrose? Shop names were evenly divided between the two names. As Google Maps would have it, we had coffee at Three Beans Glenrose Villiage (sic). It reminded us of the indistinct boundary between Chessington and Hook.

If we weren’t very lucky spotting kangaroos and koalas in the wild, we were much more fortunate seeing this beastie.

Avocado

Tossed away in a shopping trolley like an old sock. Someone will be very disappointed when they get home. Funnily enough, we’d seen another wild avocado on the pavement, down the road from Helen’s, just a few days ago. Maybe they’re planning a takeover.

We set the controls for Long Reef one more time, specifically the pie shop. The server apologised because the only pies left were vegetarian. Oh well, that’ll do, but I was cheering inside. A pie plus leftover salads from yesterday’s barbecue, lovely. Accompanied by one of our favourite Disney films on TV, Brave. And then we started watching Haunting in Venice, the new Hercule Poirot film with Kenneth Branagh, but one of our party didn’t enjoy it. I won’t name the culprit, but she’s even older than me.

Koala Park Sanctuary is about a seven hour walk from Helen’s apartment, so it’s a good we had a vehicle and were able to drive there. We had a great time walking around, visiting the mainly Australian animals. Liesel said she preferred this place to Taronga Zoo: yes, it’s a bit more shabby, but it was much quieter, less frenetic.

Blue-tongued skink

I know with 100% certainty that this is a blue-tongued skink because that’s what the sign said. On the other hand, later on, we saw a rat in the enclosure with a wombat, and that might confuse someone if they read the sign, ‘Wombat’, looked up and saw nothing but a pesky rodent. The wombat itself was hiding in his house. Another wombat around the corner was indoors too. Too cold for them?

And this, according to the sign, is definitely a diamond python.

Diamond python

We saw a lace monitor trying to escape. But he’d come in very handy for someone who maybe couldn’t reach down to retie their shoes. Just call on the services of a lace monitor.

Lace monitor

It was nice to see the kookaburras again. Last time we were here, five years ago, I’d recorded one of them laughing. I played back the recording today to see whether the bird recognised himself. Not a twitch of recognition nor interest.

Some of the other birds were singing quite nicely, but the mesh on the cages was annoyingly prominent for this photographer. Losing half of an otherwise decent picture because my finger was in the way, well, I can’t blame anyone else for that.

A couple of muzzled dingoes were taken for a walk. Despite the muzzle though, one of them managed to pick up some inappropriate food from the ground.

Dingo and carer

The long-billed corella came over to make friends. I didn’t have any food for him, but I did try to teach him some rude words. He wasn’t responding.

Long-billed corella

Lorikeets, emus, goats, sheep and, of course, kangaroos and wallabies were here to be spoken to and fed but only with the feed purchased at reception. As before, the kangaroos weren’t that interested in the same boring old food. They didn’t mind being petted a bit, though.

Liesel (right) and grey wallaby (left)

The cassowary was behind heavy wire too. And blimey, again, we were surprised to see how big their feet are, compared to an emu’s, say. Wouldn’t want one of them stomping on your feet at a disco.

But I think the highlight for all of us was seeing a couple of koalas up close. On our last visit, we were able to touch them but now, quite rightly, we can’t because they find the experience too stressful. The guide took us through all the koala facts he knew in a brisk ten minutes, then we members of the public were allowed into the koalas’ enclosure a few at a time.

Koalas

What was funny was that as soon as the guide stopped talking, one of the koalas climbed to the top of one of the bare trees, almost as if he knew what was coming, and he didn’t want anything to do with us visitors.

I’m the king of the castle
Liesel, Leslie and sleepy koala

Later on, in a different place, we found a pregnant koala. Since the joey is born not much bigger in size than the tip of your finger, she’s looking pretty big, I reckon.

Pregnant koala

We had a quick look in the gift shop and we had a coffee. Something possessed me to try it with macadamia milk. Nope, not for me. As with almond milk, which I tried once, I can’t see the point. I’ll continue to stick with old-fashioned cow juice in my coffee, thank you very much.

We had a date for a late lunch in Manly, returning to the Pantry. We parked at the far end of North Steyne, so we had a reasonable walk to the venue. The beach was very busy, and many people were in the water.

We three were first to arrive, followed by Helen and Brent soon after. Bambi was late, and it would be rude if I were to mention that she’d forgotten the date. So I won’t. But she and Gypsy were a little… delayed.

Helen and Gypsy

We had a lovely lunch, after which we bade farewell to Bambi and Gypsy for the final time on this trip.

The rest of us ambled along the road to Manly Pacific for cocktails. Well, I had a cocktail, a Dusky Rose Whaler, so did Brent, an espresso Martini. Liesel and Mom had coffee and Helen had a glass of rosé. Just so you know what to order when you take us next time, gentle reader.

And now it’s time. I want a drumroll on the table in front of you. Call up a nearby band and get them to play a fanfare. Nothing too ostentatious, just a little something to mark the occasion. I have an announcement.

I am pleased to announce that my daughter Helen is now engaged to be married to Brent.

Helen and Brent

Helen was flashing the ring a few days ago, and did I notice? With a little prompting, yes.

Engagement ring

So, love and congratulations to Helen and Brent from Dad, Liesel and Leslie: we’re so happy that we were here to share this moment with you. And love from Pauline and Andrew too who were amongst the first to hear the news, and from all your friends!

Spiders and birds

It’s a long walk up to North Head, so on this occasion, the three of us took the bus. Four years ago, this beauty spot was devastated by bush fires, and there are still signs of the destruction.

Charred tree amongst the new growth

But the new growth is flourishing, although we were disappointed to not see big spiders’ webs like we did on our previous visit. Disappointed? Well, I was, but I think Liesel and Leslie were relieved.

The Pacific Ocean lay before us like the biggest blue table cloth you could imagine. There were a couple of boats, but other than that, its size just messed with your senses, and reminded me of John Wayne. While making a film, as a Roman soldier, he had to look up at the crucified body of Jesus and say, ‘Truly, this was the son of God’. The director said, ‘Give it some awe, John’. So he said, ‘Aw, truly this was the son of God’. I don’t know if that’s a true story or not, but the ocean, seen from our lookout, really did fill us with awe.

Pacific Ocean and South Head

We took the shuttle bus down to Q Station, the old quarantine station, and had a look around the museum. It’s all fascinating stuff, but it must have been pretty grim having to wait here for several weeks with, or in case you caught, one of several nasty infectious diseases. A few people were having a good time on the beach. Four young teeny-weeny-bikini-clad girls, unencumbered with any kind of bag, came into the café, purchased, and walked away with soft drinks. Liesel posed the question: just where did they keep the credit card?

We’d thought about taking the ferry back, but the jetty is dangerous and out of bounds. Unless you’re a cormorant and you want to dry your wings out at the far end.

Q Station jetty

Back in Manly, we met Bambi and Gypsy for a coffee. But the coffee shops were closed and we ended up at the Steyne Hotel for a cocktail instead. Well, it’s five o’clock somewhere.

Palm tree in Manly
Gypsy and Leslie

In the evening, Liesel and I joined Helen and Brent back at the Harbord Hotel for another night of Trivia. Just us four in the team, we did alright, but walked away without a prize. And tired Mom managed alright at home on her own for a couple of hours.

It was time for some self-care. Liesel and Leslie had pedicures. And the following day, we all had a massage. Graçias Helena, I don’t know how you do it, but to find the area of my back that occasionally causes discomfort, even when as today, it’s feeling pretty good, well that’s the sign of a great masseuse.

We walked through Manly and along to Shelly Beach. Many people were having a great time on the beach and in the water.

Manly Beach

It was a crowded path today, and we arrived to be greeted by a large number of brush turkeys on Shelly Beach. Lunch time and we found a table inside. I watched a couple of turkeys have a chat outside. ‘Should we go in?’ ‘I was thinking about it.’ And a few seconds later, one of the turkeys did join us inside the Boathouse. And a few seconds after that, we heard and felt the first clap of thunder. After which, it started raining. Harder and harder. There was a magnificent flash of forked lightning in the clouds, after which, I spent ages trying to capture a lightning flash with the camera. The storm was right overhead, and we were glad to be inside. And of course, the place became more and more crowded as more and more damp people joined us. Not many more birds, though. In fact, there were more babies inside than the number of brush turkeys we’d seen outside.

Rain at Shelly Beach

Enjoyment of our lunch wasn’t affected, and we hung out longer that we would have normally, waiting for the rain to abate. I ordered a coffee which was very welcome. Then a second coffee was delivered to our table. That was unexpectedly welcome: I hope nobody missed out and that the staff just duplicated our order by mistake.  

We walked back to Manly and witnessed another thunderstorm. Again, we found shelter just in time, under the canopies outside the shops. From this particular vantage point, we could see the rain bounce off the road seemingly right back up where it came from. Again, we saw a couple of lightning bolts, but not when my camera was pointing in the right direction.

Bouncing rain in Manly

As we walked to the bus stop, we had to cross a road which was totally inundated. I wanted to take a picture of the puddle. And when I raised my phone, I noticed the cars splashing through the water slowed down a bit. Maybe the drivers thought I was taking a picture of their slightly antisocial behaviour.

A puddle worthy of Manchester

Back at Helen’s, Liesel prepared a meal from an EveryPlate kit. Helen joined us after work and even though the meal kit was supposed to serve four people, we had leftovers. Of course we did! We opened a bottle of wine to have with our meal. This is unusual for us, but we don’t really want to lug 13 bottles of wine around with us.

We’ve been pretty busy so we thought we’d have a more relaxed day. Liesel took Mom on an errand so I took myself off to the library where I joined quite a few other people, ancient and modern, studying, writing or just reading the newspaper.

When it was time for a coffee, I wandered around the Mall for a bit. I’m used to shops at home not selling what their names would suggest, but I thought that was just a British phenomenon. You can’t buy footwear in Boots, for instance. The Body Shop never sold corpses. And, to my embarrassment, White Stuff doesn’t deal in cocaine.

So here I was in Warringah Mall and I remembered seeing school boys over the last few days taking their fishing equipment on buses. I thought maybe I should have a go at this angling malarkey, but I needed to buy some gear. I found just the shop.

Rodd and Gunn

Nope. There were no fishing rods here and the assistant was quite offended when I suggested I might take up shooting instead. No guns here either. Well, if I can’t hunt wildlife, maybe I can buy some.

Platypus

That’s the place for me. Turns out they don’t sell playpuses nor any other kind of wild Australian animal. This was getting a bit frustrating. A stiff drink is in order, I said to myself. And just over the way, the ideal bar.

Scotch and Soda

Again, disappointment greeted me inside. Yet another shop out to confuse shoppers. Not a drop of whisky to be seen here, although I suspect the manager has a secret stash in their filing cabinet. Not wanting to walk home nor catch the bus, I decided to purchase a vehicle.

Vans

You’re ahead of me, aren’t you? I couldn’t buy any kind of motorised transport here. Instead, they tried to palm me off with a pair of shoes. I’d already decided not to walk home, and I was happy with my current footwear, thank you very much.

The weather took a turn for the worse. After the thunderstorms, the weather had cleared up. Again reader, it rained. We walked over to the car rental place to collect our final car this trip. We stayed dry, but once the heavens opened, it didn’t really stop for the rest of the day. We drove over to Forestville to do some shopping. It made a pleasant change shopping at a branch of Coles other than in Warringah Mall. No, not really, they’re all pretty much the same.,

We found a great little Greek café for a coffee. I translated most the Greek signs, but had to resort to Google Translate in the end. The waiter was totally unimpressed by my ‘Ευχαριστώ πολύ!’ Well, I tried. Oh, and it was very nice coffee here at Forest Brunch  Bar, if you’re in the area.

Wisdom on the wall

We do like visitors, but imagine our surprise when we saw this one first thing in the morning.

Spider outside the house

It’s a bit bigger than the spiders we see at home. Leslie’s face told a horror story when she was introduced to it.

And, as if this specimen wasn’t enough, we found another one on its web, with one strong thread attached to the barbecue cover. That might cause a problem later in the day.

Spider in the bush

The rain had reluctantly eased off overnight, and Freshwater Beach called us over for a quick walk.

Freshwater Beach with North Head in the background

It was hilly. We walked round in a big loop, stopping for a coffee and buying bread at Mrs Jones the Baker.

I think Hawaii might have something to say about that final claim

Freshwater View Reserve sounds appealing. It’s up the hill, and would offer specatcular views of the ocean, right? Well, it’s a very small park. There are benches, but if you sit down, your view is obscured by big bushes. It might be someone’s idea of a joke: maybe a local councillor designed this place on his final day in office.

Freshwater View Reserve

We admired the local flora. Here is the lovely Liesel, wearing blue, modelling someone’s overgrown cactus.

Liesel (left) and cactus

We felt the need to walk a little further, so we paid a return visit to Long Reef, the venue for one of our first wanders when we arrived, all those weeks ago.

At the bottom of the boat ramp, there was a flock of seagulls, not to be confused with the 1980s new wave band of that name. And in amongst these pesky chip-stealing birds, we spotted the pelican trying to look inconspicuous.

Pelican

On the golf course, Liesel noticed someone’s golf cart running away with itself. Somehow, it knew where to stop. The player caught up, selected a club, and hit the ball again. Then sent the cart off on its own to the next rendezvous. I thought half the fun of playing golf was pulling your own cart around.

We walked up to the lookout point, looked out, oohed and ahhed, and walked back down the slope.

On the road home, we passed by several cars and vans, parked up and all for sale. I don’t know which kind of vehicle was on sale for $44.50, but I’m sure it was a bargain. Or a pricing error.

We arrived home a little later than planned, Helen was in already, and Leslie, whom we’d left behind (her choice, we didn’t just forget her like David Cameron did his daughter in the pub that time) was happy to have us all back.

Helen removed the barbecue cover without upsetting the spider, so that’s a relief. We were joined by Helen and Dan with their children Asher and Fern. I’d met them before, briefly, at Nat and Rob’s.

Young children are great, but not so good at remembering not to double-dip their food in the hummus! We enjoyed some bubbles and we opened another bottle of wine from one of the vineyards we’d visited in the Hunter Valley.

Helen, Dan holding Fern, Asher and our Helen

It was a most enjoyable afternoon, eating too much and drinking too much and yakking and playing with the very entertaining children. I think only three glasses of wine were spilled, but I may have lost count. Good job we were sitting outside. Again, we all commented on how quickly it gets dark when the Sun sets at about 6pm.

Cassowaries and cake

It’s very nearly a week since her birthday, but Martha is still stuffing her face with cake. Well, it’s not every day you turn 8 years of age.

Martha and family and even more cake

At the bus stop, I was surprised to see that once again, I am being used in an advertising campaign. The nice people have slightly adjusted my age in the right direction, but I think I look pretty good, here.

Mick’s ad at the bus stop

On the ferry, I tried to get a nice photo of Liesel’s Mom with the Opera House in the background. I was hampered by the presence of other pesky passengers also looking for that perfect photo opportunity.

Leslie plus Sydney Opera House

It was a gorgeous, warm, sunny day for a walk towards the Opera House and then into the Royal Botanic Gardens. There were plenty of people here, just lying on the grass, either soaking up the rays or staying safe in the shade of the trees.

Pebble Sculpture

This sculpture was constructed over many years by visitors to the Gardens. They were invited to bring along a white pebble and place it on top. A few rogues brought darker stones, hence the pattern. Then one day, the Governor of New South Wales said, ‘that’ll do’, and visitors weren’t allowed to add any more rocks. Well, in lieu of a plaque telling us the true story behind this object, and despite several hours minutes research not being able to pin down the true story, that will indeed have to do.

Sundial

But hooray for this sundial, which was telling the correct time, using the equation of time provided. If I had a wrist watch, I could safely have reset its time.

Acorns

Acorns drew our attention to this tree. The leaves are definitely not oak leaves as we know them, but this is an oak tree. Quercus ilex. Holm Oak or Holly Oak from Southwestern Europe. One of the hardiest evergreen oaks, it thrives in all types of well drained soil and is particularly valuable for coastal plantings. As well as tolerating shade, it responds well to clipping and is suitable for hedging. The variety rotundifola has edible acorns. A bit chewy and nutty, and bits do get stuck between your teeth, but ideal for a spontaneous picnic in, for example, botanic gardens.

Polyscias willmottii

This tree is from north-east Queensland, restricted to the tops of the higher mountains from Thornton Peak and the Windsor Tableland south to Mt Bartle Frere at 1000-1500 m. This species can be grown as a ‘normal’ tree but it frequently occurs growing on other trees or on granite boulders. Planted in October 1988. I’m so glad I memorised all that.

Here’s another, rather stunning, sculpture that, at first, you don’t realise is in two parts. Very well done.

One of the new south Whales

We didn’t think there’d be any chance of seeing a cassowary out in the wild, in this part of the country, but we spotted this chap in the bushes.

Cassowary (model)

Somehow, Liesel identified this as some kind of banana tree, but then most people are better botanists than I am. And she was correct, it’s a hairy banana or pink banana, but currently bearing no fruit.

Hairy banana

We walked as far as Mrs Macquaries Point where we enjoyed a refreshing gelato. Other than a big spider and what I hope was a bandicoot but might have been a rat, running across the path, plus a few birds, we didn’t encounter any wildlife.

Opera House eclipsing the Harbour Bridge

Did I mention birds? Here is photographic evidence of why bin chickens are so called.

Litter bin chicken

A peaceful ferry ride back to Manly was interrupted by a very loud alarm going off for a very long time. When it stopped, a crew member reminded us that we’re not allowed to smoke or vape anywhere on the vessel. I think someone was caught puffing away and the alarm was left to run for so long to hide the perpetrator’s screams as they were keel-hauled.

And another thing: why do many vapers pursue their addiction so surreptitiously? They always seem to be looking around, as if to gauge how many people are watching them, whether in admiration or in disgust and dismay.

Liesel and I and Helen met up with Rob and Nat and their children at 7th Day Brewery, where we ate and drank and chatted. I even remembered to take pictures of people, some of whom were more cooperative than others, right, Sebby?!

Helen with Nat
Helen with Hamish
Rob with Sebby

At the brewery, I was surprised to see that I am being recognised and celebrated by having a brand of rosé named after me. How cool is that? I had a glass, and it’s very nice, very tasty.

Nat with Mr Mick

Get your skates on! That was the message delivered to Martha on her birthday. So she did.

Martha the SK8er girl

More protective gear than an American Football Player’s stunt double. Don’t look here for grazed knees and broken elbows!

We were a bit wary of visiting Taronga Zoo on a day during the school holidays. But it wasn’t too crowded, and we had a great day. We bumped into Nat and Hamish before we went in, expecting to see them later on, but they successfully managed to avoid us 😉 We were definitely meeting up with Helen and Brent, but they were slightly delayed. So Liesel and Leslie went in while I waited outside to meet them. Then Helen sent a message telling us to go in, so I went in too.

Corroboree frog

After visiting this rather attractive endangered frog, I went around the corner to see the koalas. Liesel and I had the following WhatsApp chat:

Liesel: On our way to Australia section
(Corroboree frog and koalas are here, so I, quite reasonably, thought this was the Aussie section)
Mick: Koalas?
Liesel: Yup, just finishing koalas
Do you want us to wait
Mick: l’m just behind then!
(and then when I couldn’t see them anywhere)
Or maybe not
What’s your grid reference?
Liesel: I don’t have a map. I’m between the
kangaroos and dingoes

Then I realised. No kangaroos nor dingoes here. We were looking at a different group of koalas. I deduced that after passing through the entrance, Liesel and Mom had turned left, whereas I’d turned right. And it was pure coincidence that we were looking at koalas at the same time. And all very cute, of course.

Koala

I walked towards the official Australia section, passing by a family of ring-tailed lemurs have a bit of argy-bargy.

We soon met up with Helen and Brent by the floral clock and close by, we attempted to see the cassowary. A real one this time. He was there, hiding in the bushes. On the other hand, the capybara didn’t mind posing for a picture.

Capybara

We enjoyed two shows. During one, we were introduced to some well-trained seals. Liesel in particular was glad we were sitting at the back, because the front row did get splashed a couple of times when the seals jumped about in the water.

At the bird show, an owl flew very low over us in the audience, we could feel the draught.

Barking owl
Black cockatoo

No idea what was going on with the tigers, but one was in the naughty room pacing up and down. Another was sleeping on top of a jeep in which children were pretending to drive through the jungle.

The lions were entertaining, well, once the male woke up and decided to go for a wander with his fou⁰r lionesses.

Sleepy lion

After lunch, Helen and Brent left. I forget that some people have to go to work, now that every day’s a holiday for me. I couldn’t think of anything I needed from the hairdressers’ wholesaler that was Helen’s next port of call.

The rhinoceroses were great. And I could see where South Africa got the idea for its current flag from.

Colourful rhinos

Other highlights include:

Red jungle fowl

From which all modern day chickens are descended. Not this particular one, but in general.

Pygmy hippo

The baby fell rather than jumped into the water, to be with Mum.

Australian sealion

We’d seen the sealion earlier at the Seal Show, so he was now having a well-deserved rest. He wasn’t about to move anywhere. But he did twitch his eyebrows as we walked by. Sorry mate, no fish in my pockets today.

Little blue penguin under water

Let me know if you would like to see one of the 101 photos I have of the penguins with their heads missing. Especially if you like seeing the rings on their feet.

We were tired from the walking and the Sun so we were glad to arrive home after two ferries and a taxi from Manly.