We woke up and, given the recent weather conditions, we actually paid attention to the local news. There are over a hundred flood warnings in the Sydney suburbs and beyond. Of particular interest to us was the news that people living in the low-lying areas around Narrabeen Lagoon have been told to evacuate.

We had a most enjoyable walk around the lagoon just over a week ago. One of the flats in Helen’s block flooded too, but we don’t know whether rain came in through an open window or water entered in some other way. Luckily, Helen had been home and closed all her own windows. Annoyingly, the new cover for her garden furniture wasn’t totally waterproof: at least one of the cushions is totally saturated. Plus, Helen had to drive through inches of flood water to drive away from Brent’s place in the morning. I know we’ve complained a lot about all that rain, but at least we haven’t been directly affected by flooding.
Here in Orange, the rain stopped overnight and we drove to Mount Canobolas for the view. Well, high up, we were again basically in a big cloud. We didn’t see much. But we did read a very sad folk tale which I committed to memory. The phone’s memory, that is.


So back down the mountain we went, to Lake Canobolas. Which is dammed at one end and leaking slightly. I think that’s the technical term.

We started to walk around the lake, and after checking that the path did indeed go all the way round, we enjoyed completing the circuit. Not the most exciting specimen, I know, but it was interesting to see grubs nearly as big as our feet. I wonder what they will eventually metamorphose into? In any case, we decided this would not be dinner.

The Molong Creek feeds the lake, and it was one of the places at risk of flooding higher up towards its source, and that might have affected our route choice in the next couple of days. In the end, there was no such issue for us. Just as there was no problem crossing the bridge here.

There was some birdlife on the lake, a few coots and ducks, plus a pair of herons way over there on an island. There must have been fish too, we passed a small group of anglers.
From the café, we bought coffee to take away with us. And I noticed again that some places, on Sundays and bank holidays, add a 10 or 15% surcharge to their prices. I always think, that’s alright as long as the actual workers reap the benefit. And it seems they do: at one place last week, the staff member said she was working for double pay that day, so, fair enough.
Helen had taken us to Heifer Station Wines a few years ago and, having had our wine-tasting appetites whetted last week, we thought we’d pay a return visit taking Leslie too. We arrived and were seated at a high bar table and over the next hour, we sampled six wines accompanied by a cheese platter. And yes, we did buy a couple of bottles to take away.

To me, it’s either white or red wine, with or without bubbles. But when you can compare similar wines, you can see they’re a very slightly different colour. And both very gentle on the palate. “Not just a shiraz, but a sexy one. This wine displays a real elegance of how shiraz thrives in a cool climate. Abundant pepper fills the nose A complex amalgum of plum, blackberry and graphite spice fill the palate. Some leafy herb & black olive underpin the black currant and blackberry fruit characters. A soft texture and a plentiful palate, make this a Heifer Station favourite.” I told our host that I just can’t smell all the different components listed in the blurb. He said he can’t either, but then he’d broken his nose three times playing rugby. I don’t have that excuse, mainly because I’m too much of a wimp to play rugby. Actually, it was never an option at my school, so we’ll never really know.
I had a quick wander outside, to see the various animals on the property: bulls, Berkshire pigs, a tiny pony, a Boer goat and some things labelled Highland cattle, but they really weren’t.


The vines are a bit sparse because the grapes were harvested a bit earlier than usual this year, thanks ultimately to climate change.

As we were leaving, we noticed a rainbow and that seemed a suitable end to the proceedings. But what else could we do today? Well, it’s cleared up a lot, so let’s go back to Mount Canobolas, we might see some kangaroos. We didn’t, but it was much more interesting at the top, we could see clearly, now the rain had gone.

Let’s go back to Lake Canobolas, we might see some kangaroos. No, of course we didn’t. But I did enjoy watching a lapwing at the now closed café rifling through some flyers in a box on the counter, as if he was looking for something. Maybe in his real world, he finds insects or something between layers of bark.
We got an Indian takeaway from a place recommended by Helen but of course we bought too much food. It was good though.
After a meh night’s sleep, Liesel and Mom went shopping while I ate breakfast, finished packing, tidied up a bit and put the rubbish out. It was time to move on: destination Dubbo Zoo. I also checked one more time that no flood warnings would affect us.
Driving towards Dubbo took us through a weird portal in time.

Not only did we pass this 1950s Hillman Minx, we also encountered a 1950s Ford Mainline ute. And later on, along the road, several more really old cars. Some weren’t going anywhere, being now largely comprised of rust, but there must be a lot of fans of ancient automobiles in this area, in and around Molong.
We saw plenty of cattle, sheep, horses and even llamas in fields by the road, but despite our best efforts, not a single kangaroo nor wallaby. Leslie is beginning to think these creatures are fictional, like fairies and decent politicians.
We passed through Wellington without feeling the need to stop. Not as exciting as New Zealand’s capital city, of course. But we did stop in Geurie and I am grateful that at no time did I have to pronounce this placename.
Leslie opted for a can of Coke while Liesel and I chose a coffee milkshake. The coffee shop was also the town’s supermarket and post office. We were both amazed at the size of the milkshakes, they were huge. And, as a special treat today, they gave us plastic straws: take that, eco-warriors.
I wasn’t quick enough to take a picture of the blue tree that stood alone in the middle of a field. Somewhere north of Geurie and west of the A32, if you want to seek it out.
We arrived at Dubbo Zoo, also known as Taronga Western Plains Zoo, at about 12.30. And what a pleasant day for a walk. For a while, we were just ahead of the truck transporting keepers and food, so that as we approached the various compounds, the animals walked towards us. As I said to Leslie, this was great, I’ve already got many photos of animals’ backsides.



Some animals were hiding of course, we didn’t see the cheetahs nor the lions. But we did go back in time again, witnessing three World War 2 planes flying over us in formation.

We sat and watched this elephant for quite a long time, waiting for him to either fall or dive into the water. He came close, but stayed dry.
I had a mediocre sandwich for lunch. It was so bad, that it fell out of its packet onto the floor. The staff tried not to laugh as they replaced it. Liesel had a so-so cheese and ham croissant.
Soon after setting off for the second half of our walk, Leslie spotted a kangaroo. Hooray! A real one, just munching on grass, minding its own beeswax. And, it wasn’t a guest of the zoo, but a wild one chancing its arm.

Leslie was in some discomfort, so we took several shortcuts back to the car. We decided we can catch up with the rest of the inmates tomorrow. Yes, a second day at the zoo, because we are staying here for one night, in one of the Savannah Cabins.
From our cabin, you can see giraffes and rhinos in the distance, and we kicked ourselves for not bringing binoculars. After a cup of tea, I went for a walk to see if I could get significantly closer. No. But I did see some mushrooms growing. Yes, mushrooms. And I did see a few ant hills. Well, to be honest, I’m a prat and I was wearing sandals so I felt the ants first, before seeing them. About a hundred million billion all running around passing on news about Mick’s foot being very tasty.

There are signs warning us of the presence of snakes too. Needless to say, I stayed on the path and stomped to let them know I was coming. Maybe I stomped in the wrong place, and that’s what upset the ants.
On the way in to Savannah Gardens, we’d seen signs telling us to watch out for kangaroos. Did we see any here? No. But I did see evidence in the form of foot prints on the path. The Sun set very quickly, so plans to eat outside were abandoned. Dinner was leftovers from last night’s Indian takeaway. Thank goodness our cabin had a microwave.
Leslie washed the dishes and then joined Liesel and me in the sitting area. Suddenly, “What’s that? Is it a cockroach?” yelled Leslie. There was indeed a large bug running across the floorboards. But not a cockroach. I was torn between trying to take its picture for later identification and just getting rid of it. I opted for the latter. So I opened the screen door, you know, the mesh one that lets fresh air in but keeps mosquitoes out. As soon as the door opened, a gigantic moth flew in. I don’t think I screamed, but the other two did. Now, I had two beasties to deal with. The long but fast thing on the floor stopped moving for a moment, so I picked it up as gently as I could with a sheet of kitchen paper and chucked the whole package outside. Reader: it wriggled in my fingers. Looking it up later, I think it was a Lord Howe Island stick insect or something like that. Now, just the giant moth to deal with. I noticed Liesel was sitting on the back of the sofa with her feet well off the ground. The moth settled, I took its picture, then encouraged it to walk onto a piece of card which made releasing it into the outside world easy. It kept coming back though, knocking at the mesh.

I know we’re staying at the zoo for the night, but having the wildlife move in with us wasn’t part of the deal. As the evening wore on, the noise from outside became louder as insects, frogs, birds and others all started talking to each other: clicks, chirrups, stridulation and crepitation. And, at some point in the middle of the night, I heard a cuckoo. Or something mimicking a cuckoo.

In the morning, I realised we’d been under supervision all night.
On the second day at the zoo, we decided to drive round, and just walk the shorter distances to see some animals that we’d missed yesterday. But they weren’t all cooperating. The hippos stayed well back and they definitely weren’t pooping and rotating their propellor-like tails, something that Liesel particularly wanted to show her Mom, for some reason.

There was supposed to be a keeper giving a talk about the hippos, but that didn’t happen either. The elephant continued to walk around and play near the pool, but he didn’t bother going for a dip. And the cheetahs too were visible, yes, but right at the back of their compound, pacing up and down rather than running at 70 mph as advertised.

It’s probably not fair to have favourites, but I did feel a bit sorry for the one-horned rhino. Maybe he just doesn’t like people, but his enclodure was totally surrounded by grass matting, with small windows for us to peep through.

I told Liesel his name was Neil: Rhino Neil.
Along the path a bit, it was really the otters we’d come to see, specifically, small-clawed otters. By luck, we arrived at feeding time, and the three otters knew it. As the hour approached, they became more and more active. Moreso when the keeper arrived. And really excited when she tossed bits of fish over the glass into their pond.

One came up really close, and I told Lesel his name was Small-Clawed van Damme.
We all wanted to visit the Australia section today since we’d missed out yesterday. We saw koalas way up in the trees, very hard to spot them, so we’re grateful to the bloke who pointed them out.
Underneath us, we enjoyed seeing a pair of quokkas eating.

We could tick wallabies off the list, but not the echidna. In Lion Pride Lands, we saw a cub with his mother, soaking up the Sun.

As a snack, Liesel and I consumed a whole bag of crisps leading up to lunchtime. But, since there was nothing appealing at the café, we just had an ice cream. Crisps and ice cream, a fully balanced diet. Fellow diners included numerous ibises plus this very attractive, colourful bananabird.

After the zoo, it was time once again to set off for a long two-hour drive. Destination: Coonabarabran, the astronomical capital of Australia. It was fascinating to see how densely the trees grew in some areas, and then empty fields here and there. It was a long, straight road, with very few inhabitants. It might have been bin day as we passed a wheelie bin every few kilometres.

We saw very little traffic so of course whenever two cars passed close together in the opposite direction, we compared it with Piccadilly Circus.
Just before Coona, as the locals call it, we passed a big model of Saturn by the side of the road. And then, having passed through the town on the road to our final destination, we passed by a big Jupiter. Not as big as the real one, obviously.
Mark and Wendy met us at the gates of Dark Sky Eco Resort. We were staying here in one of two lodges and by the time we arrived, Helen and Brent had already settled in.
This is a 100% off grid facility with all sustainable practices. Modern facility amenities and Starlink internet connectivity. There are emus and with a bit of luck, really clear skies.

After dinner, we spent some time outside acquainting ourselves with the dark sky. Some things were easy to identify, including the milky way and the Large Magellanic Cloud, Orion and Sirius and the Southern Cross. Other stars were hard to identify because there were so many of them. The first picture I took with my phone was a dud. The second one really surprised me.

Other photos are ok, but the phone was sitting on a chair, on a wooden boardwalk, on which we were all walking. The field of view is identifiable, but there was just a bit too much camera shake.
Plus, and I didn’t realise this at the time, the noises emanating from the emus, the grunts and deep, thumping booming notes also cause vibrations in the ground. I tried recording their sounds, but I don’t think my phone’s microphone is good with such low frequencies.
And with all the lights out in the lodge at the end of the day, I think this is one of the darkest places I’ve ever been, away from the depths of an old coalmine when they turned the lights off that day. And even though we heard emus and other noctural animals on and off, I think we had a good night’s sleep.
Over in America, Martha was celebrating her 8th birthday in style, sight-seeing in New York, consuming at least two birthday cakes, waffles for breakfast and pizza, and you know what American portion sizes are like in restaurants: huge.

It was the day of the Solar Eclipse too, which Martha and William and their parents viewed from somewhere near Niagara Falls.

Unfortunately, it was cloudy so the full glory of the eclipse was lost, but this is Liam’s best picture.

There’s only one thing for it: find out when and where the next total eclipse is, and go!